Cafe/track bike project 1100f finally got started...

Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:11 pm

Got the 1100f a few weeks ago and started ordering/removing/selling stuff. While scouring Craigslist for a 75-76 F rear disc wheel I found some bits to tide me over for $400:

Score. Dude was fairly upfront and I get the feeling that they're not stolen. <fingers>

I'll run those wheels/tires until I can lace up my new hubs/wheels and adapt them to the f3 discs. Two days after buying that stuff I found an spoked/disc wheel for pretty cheap. Doh!!

Next step was to install the f3 stuff. I could have bored the stock F triples, but where's the fun in that? First step was to grind down the lower triple clamps weld and knock the stem out of it.

The next step was turning down the 1100f stem (easily pressed out) just a tad as the splines are a little oversized. If you turn it down to just where you can still see a bit of the spline left you're good. Then pressed the stem in. The proper amount in the f3 lower triple leaves 7/16" space between the lower triple clamp bottom and the top of the stock 1100f ridge. Then cut it off with about 1/4" left showing and run a full bead around it. Not really necessary imo, but couldn't hurt.

Some notes about the f3 triples->you can make the fork lock work but it'll basically require a welder, and you have to remove most of the upper fock lock stay on the headtube. Same goes for the steer limiters on the f3 clamp. Just take them off. It'll be easy enough to drill one more hole and tap it for a bolt on steering limiter that works with the stock 1100f tabs. Or just add some bump stops to the oil cooler mounts/bolts. If you don't do this the fork tubes hit the tank. I know most of you know this, but searches on the subject were hit/miss, so I'm adding it to help other people.

You can see in the pics that I'm cutting down the stock seat. I've already removed about 3lbs of foam and it's already waaaaay more comfy. I will build another rear more "cafe" but I need a two up seat for the wifey as well. Very Happy

While I had everything off I decided to weigh some stuff:
Stock 1100f frontend (brakes/etc, no bars):

Stock F3 front end(with clipons):

Stock 1100f front wheel/discs:

Stock F3 front wheel/discs:

Stock 1100f rear wheel/disc/gear:

Stock F3 rear wheel:

Got some Raask rearsets from an 1100f member (thanks natscape!):

Not too impressed with the build quality of the Raask stuff, but they were cheap and they seem extremely strong. I'll need to lathe up some pegs though.

Long post I know, but I'm excited! Next step is to fab up the rear with a tl1000 led light setup and mount the electrics/battery out back. Then stitch up a new cover for the cut down seat. I'm copying Melchiro's Autozone Intake Manifold swap to use some cheap gsxr mikuni RSs. I don't think the spoked wheels will be done before it runs, but I don't mind the light f3 wheels for now I guess. Still undecided on wheel size and if I want to run bias plys versus radials.

Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:45 pm

Yeah ! ! ! Way to Go, Funkweasel! Keep going...

Hawk Joined: Oct 07, 2008 Posts: 463 Location: Chino, CA

Does that shifter mechanism do what I think it does... kick forward for upshift, normal downshift?

I like that... it's tough to deal with these size 12's.

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:31 am

RichLockyer wrote:

Does that shifter mechanism do what I think it does... kick forward for upshift, normal downshift?

I like that... it's tough to deal with these size 12's.

Pretty sure it can be oriented both ways, but yeah I'll be setting it up reverse as that is what I'm most used to. I doubt this bike can lean enough for it to be *that* useful, but can't hurt.

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:01 am

very cool post. Thanks for the detailed info on the triple modification. I agree, having searched this before its hard to get any info except press out the old stem and swap. Do you have any photos of the finished triple before mounting? I have assembled all the parts and have my winter project planned - F3 fork/brakes and wheel upgrade.

Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:23 am

911F wrote:

very cool post. Thanks for the detailed info on the triple modification. I agree, having searched this before its hard to get any info except press out the old stem and swap. Do you have any photos of the finished triple before mounting? I have assembled all the parts and have my winter project planned - F3 fork/brakes and wheel upgrade.

Dammit!! I forgot. I can take some though since I'll probably pull it out again to finish it off. Maybe in a few days? The grinding is a *lot* more than you'd think when you first look at the f3 clamp/stem. Just grind until the stem/weld is flush with the bottom of the clamp, then you can just knock it out with a hammer.

I completely understand why people just bore the stockers. The 1100f lower triple is actually noticeably lighter than the cbr and has a bigger clamping area. I'd bet on it being flexier though.

Everything else works fine. I forgot to mention that the ignition fits up fine with the stock f3 top clamp with a 3/8" spacer and the top bolt works as well. The top washer fits into the clamp perfectly.

I don't know how the 900 and 750 stems compare .

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:58 am

The Raask sets are not as strong as you would think. I have gone through a few sets. I really like the position, you should be happy with them.

I have always wanted to switch to Grand Prix shifting(1 up 4 down), maybe next season.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:38 am

jkotsi wrote:

The Raask sets are not as strong as you would think. I have gone through a few sets. I really like the position, you should be happy with them.

I have always wanted to switch to Grand Prix shifting(1 up 4 down), maybe next season.

Really, dammit. I'd hoped they didn't just cast them from pure Al (or some lame easily cast Al-alloy). I may just have to copy the position and machine some up for myself then. I like the position now too(installed'em) with the cut down seat. I hope to finish stitching the new cover sometime next week.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:09 am

You need to drop the bike to do any damage, but they are nowhere as sturdy as stock. A folding footpeg would help.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:40 am

Good to know, thanks! At least I have one extra. Wink

I'll see about working out a folding set of pegs.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:46 am

Funkweasel wrote:

Good to know, thanks! At least I have one extra. Wink

I'll see about working out a folding set of pegs.

Raasks could be had with folding pegs, and they are still available new. Folding or not, the rubber pegs on the early Raasks were horrible. Omars carries new Raask sets as well as spares;

http://www.rearsets.info/rearsets.html

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:50 pm

Omar wants $75 each for the folding footpegs. Shocked

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:55 pm

motomoon wrote:

Omar wants $75 each for the folding footpegs. Shocked

Yep. Considering I paid $100 for everything I'll be making my own or adapting something. The Raask stuff *really* isn't worth the price new. It's not very good.

Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:23 am

Well...small update on mounting the rear wheel up and reshaping the seat. Replaced the starter and the motor spins fine now. Got my rear spoked sohc F disc wheel too. Anyways, on to the update.....

The f3 rear wheel fits pretty easy and the archives cover that of course. I found that the wheel needed about 3/32" movement to the drive side. Without machining the stock f3 spacer the swingarm to sprocket distances are identical to the 1100f. The caveat here is that my stock stuff looked slightly misaligned, so this can't really be a good rule of thumb for anyone to copy. I put the spacer on a lathe and due to some crappy tool holding, I went about 0.04" too far. Problem is->the stock f3 studs are already uncomfortably close to the swingarm. These should probably be clearanced for anyone's 1100 swingarm regardless.

Using the f3 caliper mount and the stock 1100f spacer works fine. Just put the spacer to the side of a grinding wheel until it fits. That'll keep it nice and square if you're careful.

Need to decide on the stay situation. I'd prefer to mount one to the chassis to minimize brake jack, but it's so tidy as is.

Reshaped the seat quite a bit. This is a pita and the leather was expensive. Will have it stitched up this week for more pics, but....

For fun and proper fitment I mounted up the Raask rearsets

Next step is to finish the seat and 'melchiro' the mikuni rs carbs. They can be reracked but it doesn't help since they hit the tank with the stock intake manifolds anyway. Need to reshape the tail a bit since I really like the look of the stocker, but not the length.

Slow going I know.....

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:51 pm

Here is what my triple clamp conversion image looked like:

and with the old lower tree:

you can search junior to check it out ....DrOlds

Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:51 am

Worst pics ever, but finished the reshaping and new leather cover. Turned out ok for the first ever time cutting and stitching leather!

Very little other progress. Sad

Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:03 pm

Great stuff so far. Never mind what you've read about putting radials on machines that were designed for bias ply sneakers. The radials will transform your bike in ways I cant fully describe. All good and no bad. Cool

Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:00 pm

larryg wrote:

Great stuff so far. Never mind what you've read about putting radials on machines that were designed for bias ply sneakers. The radials will transform your bike in ways I cant fully describe. All good and no bad. Cool

Thanks man!

Makes sense what you say for sure. I wish more 18" rear tires were available other than the Dunlop d207 and avon a23(I think that's the name). Maybe I'll stick with 17s.