Vapor Blasting

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:17 pm

Cases for Sillygoose's motor build arrived back yesterday from Nils.

This work is just phenomenal!

Rick, I trust you won't mind me sharing in the excitement. The engine builders out there will quickly recognize one key modification.

It's almost a shame to paint it black but, I'm going to.

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 1:39 pm

Nils does great work .... case windows look well done.

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 2:00 pm

I love the vapor blasting look. Been thinking about having it done and then just clear coating the motor.

Nice windows JR. You can go quite a bit wider and no worries.

Keep up the great work, Jim

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:56 pm

Best thing about working with motorcycle people?

Motorcycle people. Thanks guys, much appreciated.

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 10:13 pm

Clear coat it! It's absolutely magnificent looking!

Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2016 11:32 pm

The problem with clear-coat is that is doesn't provide any adhesion to bare aluminum.

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 2:26 am

More people are doing clear powder. I was going to have some engines parts done on an old project but never did. There powder guy said it was great and it adhered well. I don't have any experience with it but I bet there is at least one person on here that might know..... Tom?....

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 2:35 am

Looks very nice. I have a question about the vapor blasting. Isn't there some media in the blasting mix and if so, how do you clean that up J.R.? Did the inside of the cases get done as well or just the outside?

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 3:42 am

Hondo57 wrote:

Looks very nice. I have a question about the vapor blasting. Isn't there some media in the blasting mix and if so, how do you clean that up J.R.? Did the inside of the cases get done as well or just the outside?

I can answer that seeing as we did the project Smile

. Yes there is media used, lots and lots of it, that's what does the work. The compressed air provides the energy, and the water provides cushion and lubrication. First we clean the parts in heated parts cleaning equipment, then dry them. We then thread a bolt into every single threaded passage, remove all the oil gallery plugs and clean those till spotless, then we plug those, and mask any direct bearing surfaces. Then we vapor blast them, inside and out.

Then we rinse the parts, several times, then blast them clean with compressed air, then we rinse again, then the plugs and screws are removed, then we rinse and flush and blast them clean and dry again. Then we let them dry overnight, then we blast them again. Then immediately wrap and pack them.

I dare say the parts are pretty darned clean when you get them back Smile

.

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:41 pm

It's so clean that I won't let anyone handle the parts without gloves. I don't want ANY greasy fingerprints on these to prevent good adhesion when I spray my etching primer.

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 5:34 pm

CBX-tras wrote:

It's so clean that I won't let anyone handle the parts without gloves. I don't want ANY greasy fingerprints on these to prevent good adhesion when I spray my etching primer.

I don't think I have anything to teach you about restorations J.R., but I would still wipe them down with lacquer thinner or acetone before painting.

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 1:36 am

As you know I'm a fan of Vapor blasting and have been using the process for many years. Personally I have found that the process is so non-invasive that I blast even the bearing saddles, every port, gallery and in fact 100% of any aluminium part in hand. The only parts I don't do are the actual bearing journals on the crank and camshafts. Of course it is cleaned carefully just the same as it would be by the factory after the original die-casting process. It is not a hard thing to do as long as you pay 100% attention and are thorough.

Nils obviously is (thorough) as the quality of work leaving his shop is testament of the fact.

As for the magic windows here's how large you can go safely. Please be aware that these cases are only just been started and there many other modifications to come but I like to start with blasted cases in order to see clearly everything needed. Once finished they are blasted again then the cleaning and assembly process begins.

Captain

(This picture is from one of our 2 new engines under construction)

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 1:41 am

So you do etch before you paint? I was wondering. On previous engines I have used high temp primer, shot it and baked it. Comes out super smooth but I would like to give the etching primer a try to see if there is a little less build

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 2:16 am

really very nice results and work. And thanks for the link explaining it all. Answered all my questions.

I have some upcoming projects so I hope to avail of your services.

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 3:26 am

Hondo57 wrote:

So you do etch before you paint? I was wondering. On previous engines I have used high temp primer, shot it and baked it. Comes out super smooth but I would like to give the etching primer a try to see if there is a little less build

I've done it a couple of different ways, using an etching primer, bare metal after solvent wipe-down, and with acid etch. My current favorite is to use a product called AlumaPrep, diluted as directed. Spray or soak for something's like 3 minutes, and watch the rinse water as directed: if the water sheets off, you're good. Dry it and paint it ASAP. I think I get the least orange peel and it is as you say, low build.

I'm a neophyte painter though, still have a lot to learn.

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 3:27 am

bee-jay wrote:

really very nice results and work. And thanks for the link explaining it all. Answered all my questions.

I have some upcoming projects so I hope to avail of your services.

I would be very happy to work with you. Be in touch anytime.