1100F - New Chain

Hawk Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 439 Location: Chicago

So I've embarked on freshening up my 1100F that has 20k miles.
I though it might be a good idea to replace the chain since they are pretty cheap.
I see that this bike takes a 530 chain and that my sprockets seem to be in good condition...

I've replaced chains on my other bikes (450, 550, 750, 900) all with typical DID standard chains with no real issues...

Should I consider a O-Ring chain...Are they difficult to install..?....Same as standard chain..?

Thanks for your input....

Lastly, If I want to change the sprockets should I consider doing so now and should the teeth count be changed...This question also holds true for a 900 build I'm working on.....

Thanks, Erock

Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 11:42 pm

Eric....the chain and sprockets should always be replaced as a set....
O-ring chains last much longer as they trap the grease in side them.....and keeps dirt out.
A quality chain is not that cheap!
$200 will get you a nice chain and two sprockets....

Jebby

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:36 am

+1 on what Jebby said - go with an O-ring chain and it will last you a long time. DID makes great chains, but keep in mind that they come standard as "endless." In other words, you'll need a tool such as the Motion Pro PBR for installing and peening over the ends. You also need to measure with a vernier to make sure that you don't under or over peen them. The other option is to buy a spring clip removable master link for a few extra bucks. The O-ring makes them a little harder to install, but with a small, slightly modified C-clamp, you can pinch the two sides of the link together, squeezing the O-rings enough so that you can slip the link into the grooves. Now let's not get into the debate about endless vs. removable master link here...

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:41 am

tomk1960 wrote:

+1 on what Jebby said - go with an O-ring chain and it will last you a long time. DID makes great chains, but keep in mind that they come standard as "endless." In other words, you'll need a tool such as the Motion Pro PBR for installing and peening over the ends. You also need to measure with a vernier to make sure that you don't under or over peen them. The other option is to buy a spring clip removable master link for a few extra bucks. The O-ring makes them a little harder to install, but with a small, slightly modified C-clamp, you can pinch the two sides of the link together, squeezing the O-rings enough so that you can slip the link into the grooves. Now let's not get into the debate about endless vs. removable master link here...

I have the Motion Pro tool and it works great! Easy to use.....and cheap @ $40.....
Just did the black CBX the other day.....5 minutes!

I won't debate...but if you have the tool.....there is no reason not to use an endless.... Wink

Jebby

Hawk Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 439 Location: Chicago

Ok, so,, go with the O-ring, endless, and get the Motion Pro tool which must be different then my current Motion Pro Chain Breaker tool kit that sells for like $80....?

Plus, I want to be sure the number of stock teeth on the front and rear sprockets and don't see it anywhere in my Shop Manual....
So please confirm if you know for sure...

Thanks, E

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:53 am

The Motion Pro PBR tool totally kicks ass and makes the job a lot easier. Go here to the JT Sprockets web site to select the correct sprockets for your bike:

http://www.jtsprockets.com/products

They make great sprockets by the way, and you can get them very reasonably priced on Amazon.com. I can get you the MP tool and DID chain for a good price if interested - just PM me.

Tom

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 1:05 am

You want this:

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0058-Breaker-Riveting/dp/B001KOPFIW/ref=sr_1_2/192-8977978-0590469?ie=UTF8&qid=1410829510&sr=8-2&keywords=motion+pro+chain+tool

Jebby

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 2:52 am

OR you could just buy a Tsubaki that is a better chain and has clip.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:01 am

You might consider this:http://www.cyclegear.com/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY-Chain-Breaker-and-Rivet-Tool-Kit
There is probably a store in you vicinity.

Chico

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:39 am

sonicrete wrote:

OR you could just buy a Tsubaki that is a better chain and has clip.

I run nickel plated Tsubaki with master link and have never had a problem. I can take the chain off anytime I want, which I have done several times.. I don't get the other concept...

Been running this setup for three years.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 4:22 am

I thought that 'endless' meant that the chain was already tailor made for the application and required removing the swing arm to put it on (to avoid splitting/repining the chain)? Endless, i.e. no ends.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 4:24 am

hogwild113 wrote:

sonicrete wrote:

OR you could just buy a Tsubaki that is a better chain and has clip.

I run nickel plated Tsubaki with master link and have never had a problem. I can take the chain off anytime I want, which I have done several times.. I don't get the other concept...

Been running this setup for three years.

I've lost a clip a few times but never actually lost the link, even with the clip gone. Now I glue (silicon) and safety wire the clip on. No lost clips anymore Very Happy

.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:56 am

Bucko wrote:

hogwild113 wrote:

sonicrete wrote:

OR you could just buy a Tsubaki that is a better chain and has clip.

I run nickel plated Tsubaki with master link and have never had a problem. I can take the chain off anytime I want, which I have done several times.. I don't get the other concept...

Been running this setup for three years.

I've lost a clip a few times but never actually lost the link, even with the clip gone. Now I glue (silicon) and safety wire the clip on. No lost clips anymore Very Happy

.

I've always run the Tsubaki Sigma chain with the master link and have never had a problem. I always buy a spare master link and keep it in the toolkit, but I've never had to use it. I also use a dap of black gorilla snot (3M weatherstrip cement) on the clip and it never moves.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 2:42 pm

No shop worth its salt will pull a swing arm to change a chain. The only time I have seen them pull a swinger is for a belt.

I guess you always could, but why do 3 hours of work for a 15 min job.. Smile

Bucko wrote:

I thought that 'endless' meant that the chain was already tailor made for the application and required removing the swing arm to put it on (to avoid splitting/repining the chain)? Endless, i.e. no ends.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:22 pm

You can buy rivet links......grind the heads off and replace.....I have done it many times.....
And I am not against clip-links either.....just feel better with a riveted one....
Of course you can't do this on the road....but what circumstance would not leave
you stranded anyway with a messed up chain?

Jebby

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:20 pm

Drag racing for YEARS never lost a chain. Always used Tsubaki chain.

It is made different that other chain,ie the clip clink pin has step. The pins are held with four rivets and since it has step something to rivet against. The inner link has projected bushing to contain the "O" ring.

The links are press fit so need a good pair of pliers to install the outside plate.

Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:39 pm

CowTownBiomed wrote:

No shop worth its salt will pull a swing arm to change a chain. The only time I have seen them pull a swinger is for a belt.

I guess you always could, but why do 3 hours of work for a 15 min job.. Smile

Bucko wrote:

I thought that 'endless' meant that the chain was already tailor made for the application and required removing the swing arm to put it on (to avoid splitting/repining the chain)? Endless, i.e. no ends.

Not suggesting that anyone do it, I wouldn't! Just saying: I thought 'endless' meant no ends. If I had the swig arm off anyway, like for a rebuild, and I needed a new chain, I'd use an endless if one was available.

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:53 am

Bucko wrote:

Now I glue (silicon) and safety wire the clip on. No lost clips anymore Very Happy

.

That sounds like quite a feat. Do you have a pic of your safety-wired clip? I can't imagine there's a lot of room to work with.

cheers
ian

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:59 pm

bikeboy wrote:

Bucko wrote:

Now I glue (silicon) and safety wire the clip on. No lost clips anymore Very Happy

.

That sounds like quite a feat. Do you have a pic of your safety-wired clip? I can't imagine there's a lot of room to work with.

cheers
ian

Just wrap a safety wire around the side of the plate across the clip. Still need a pix?

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:27 pm

Silicon does just as good a job. Put the pin in the center of the nozzle and squesse.

Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:42 pm

Bucko wrote:

Just saying: I thought 'endless' meant no ends.

Well if you consider how a chain is made..none of them are actually "endless" they just crimped both "ends" together.. Very Happy