CB1100F Build Thread - Its gonna be nice!

Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:25 am

Hey Guys,

It has been a while since my last post - Sorry about that. I've been meaning to continue the story, but with the holidays and some time away on vacation 4 weeks can go by pretty quick (last post was December 4th).

That doesn't mean I haven't been working on the 1100... Oh, I have... and I'm taking pics to document the progress.

But today, I am going to share the my experience prepping the engine for paint and then painting the engine. Normally, I would have cleaned the engine, masked it and then taken it to my local painter for the paint application. This time, I decided to do the whole job myself. Mostly, because I wanted to learn more about painting and having more control over the job (besides, the last time, my painter took a very long time to complete my job!).

In the past with other project bikes, I took a weekend and scrubbed the engine clean using degreasers and detergent. I would use brushes and small sections of 'scrubbies' (scouring pads). I was always successful, but this time, I decided I was going to use my newly acquired soda blaster to remove the dirt and grime from the engine. I was (am) concerned about getting the abrasive inside the engine so I decided that I would leave the engine covers in place as I was fortunate to have spare covers that I finished for use on the engine after painting. I did my best to cover any opening that I could.

Soda blasting is a messy operation that I did outside on my driveway. I did the work probably is September, so it was still warm enough to be outside. I didn't worry about the left over soda on my driveway because the rain takes it away in just a few days. I did wear a complete paint suit, hat, respirator, face shield during the work. You still feel dirty afterwards, but no biggie there.

Here's a few shots of the engine during and after the soda blast operation:

After recovering from the engine cleaning operation, I set my sights on how to apply the paint to the engine. I decided that I was going to purchase a turbine painting system and I decided on the one from TP Tools.

This is the system:
http://www.tptools.com/p/2994,59_Showtime-90-HVLP-Turbine-Unit-with-ProLine-Paint-Spray-Gun.html

First of all, let me say that I am not good at this type of work. I try to comprehend the paint and the equipment and I'm soon lost. I should take some classes and try to get educated on the subject. That's partially why I was interested in the turbine system... The product write up makes it sound simpler (to me). I think there's a little less involved with the equipment setup. Also, they promise much less over spray (and mess on your shop floor) with this type of system.

Deciding on what type of paint to use wasn't too hard. I decided to use the Eastwood brand ceramic engine paint. Supposed to be good to 650 degrees F. Uses a hardener mixed 4 (paint) to 1 (hardener). Here are my chemicals:

Another benefit to the turbine system (at least according to the TP Tools catalog...) was that it was possible to paint outdoors. I suppose this might be possible if you are shooting a primer coat or some smaller parts (like an engine?), so this appealed to me as well. I didn't want to get paint inside my shop/garage area.

So, I decided that I would paint my engine, outdoors on my driveway using the turbine spray system and the Eastwood engine paint. That was in September. Then September turned into October and we had rainy weekends and... you know the story... this idea about working outside wasn't gonna happen. Now what... I needed a paint booth inside my shop!

Here's what I built:

The booth let me spray inside and not worry about the weather, dust and bugs. It also contained and managed the over spray that I did get onto the floor. Take notice of my 'air management system'! That's an old fan I taped cheap furnace filters to, that trap the over spray. I installed furnace filters on the 'input side' as well. Lots of lamps required for lighting... never too bright!

I practiced a few times prior to actually painting my engine. I had some other parts that needed a coat of paint that let me get used to the system. After getting ready and making sure that I had enough time I decided to go ahead and shoot the engine.

I've been asked a few times about how I was going to manage painting underneath the engine and topside as well. You can see from this picture:

that I use a furniture dolly (the larger, rectangular one from Harbor Freight) that allows me to move the engine around on the floor. It also allows me to tip the engine, front to back on the dolly. I just position a 2x4 board where I need it to support the engine. I was able to 'flop' the engine forward, allowing me to spray under the engine. And then after a few moments, I can flop the engine back upright to apply paint to the topside of the engine. It really works well with minimal effort. I have an engine stand, but I just don't see the need to use it for this operation.

One thing that was giving me trouble (early) was having dribbles of engine oil finding its way out mostly from the oil cooler outlets on the bottom side of the engine. I solved this problem by building small blocking plates using thin plywood cut to match the opening and a gasket material cut to match the plywood. I used 4 bolts (2 per outlet) to secure the blocking plates to the engine block. This way, no more oil mussing my nice paint. I'll try to get a better picture, but you can just make out the wooden 'blocking plates' in the photo above.

So, after all of this talk. Here's the finished product:

What can I say... the engine is very glossy black with a nice coat of paint. I am happy with the results. I am happier that I now have a controlled means of applying (real) paint and I hope to learn more. Don't forget... the pictures above, these engine covers aren't being used on this engine. They were in place for soda blasting and for painting. The finished covers go on after removing these ones!

I do need to learn more about the turbine system as it is a bit different than a normal compressed air system. The turbine actually heats the air. This is good in that it helps in preventing runs and sags. It is bad because you need to be careful that the paint doesn't dry so fast that you are left with 'orange peel' effect in your paint. The instructions say to always use the slowest drying reducers/activators when mixing your paint. I am still learning!

Scott

Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:41 pm

for what its worth, all compressors heat the air to some degree.

Think of heat in a volume instead of a temprature.

if you take 50 square feet of 70 degrees and stuff it into 5 square feet, you end up with 700 degrees (thats just an example not a statistic)

Incedently, thats how air conditioners work. The compressor squeezes the media, then they cool it through the condensor removing the heat, then they re-expand the cooled media in the evaporator, which in turn drops in temprature and a fan then blows warm air across it, and it gathers the heat out of the air to be removed by the condensor again...

MB-5 Joined: Jan 07, 2013 Posts: 2 Location: calif

Hi All,
New to this forum, so I hope i'm posting this in the right spot.
recently my son was given a cb1100f by his uncle, (well actually his wife made him get rid of it,lol) but anyway it had been sitting since 1991 in his garage and ran when he parked it. So we flushed the tank and went through the carbs, oil and filter, brakes and rotors plugs, wires, battery and tires.

We got it running strong and have put about 1,000 miles on it since going through it. just recently it started a low rpm knock lower end, my thinking rod bearing. here are my questions, should we continue to ride the bike or could we do more damage? If we go through the motor what could it cost? Can you just replace rod bearing? Oh and the bike has about 35,000 miles on it. Thanks

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:47 am

Stop it right now..........................DO NOT run it any further because if you do and you are correct about the big end or similar, then any running is just going to destroy more parts.
No way to tell you at this point how much ($) as you might as well be asking how long is a piece of string...................?????????
Open it up..................................Then you will know what you are facing.
Captain

Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:15 pm

Curt,

Hello. Welcome to the forum! This is a great place to ask questions and learn about our F bikes.

You would do better to start a new thread (discussion) in the 'Technical Help ' section. That way your thread will get the attention it deserves.

Scott

Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 4:10 pm

Guys,

Time for another update. I am still catching this build thread up to where I currently am with my project, but I thought I'd put a few more picture out here.

Today, I'll describe the front fork rebuild process. This has already been detailed many times in other threads, so I'll just touch base in regard to my project.

The 1100F foorks, for me, was the first time inside a fork with the TRAC hardware, so this would be a little more complicated for me. I was able to tear everything apart as planned. I did end up drilling out the lower fork bolt (the one under the axle) on one side when even after taking all the precautions, the allen head driver turned inside the bolt. No biggie, I ordered two new bolts (and seals) to take care of that problem.

Once everything was apart, the fork lower units got a good cleaning and then were blasted before I sent them off to TomK for Powdercoating.

Here's the fork lowers before being blasted:

It wasn't until about October of last year that I got around to the re-assembly work. I ordered new fork seals and the 'small rubber bits' that are needed for the Trac unit from Honda. After all of the months had passed between taking these apart and the time to put them back together, I still needed some help to remember all of the details. TomK and others from the forum helped with that information.

Here's a little of the detail when they were apart on my bench:

After a few days to figure out how the parts went back together (and also assembling the front brake calipers), here's the results:

If I didn't say so before, most all of the fork parts have been powder coated by TomK and they look fantastic! I am very happy with his work. I think these are going to look great on the finished bike.

Scott

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:40 am

Looks very nice Scott,the zinc plated bolts are you leaving them that way ? On my 1100 have them also zinc plated and did not paint them.

Wim

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:49 pm

Metal,

Those bolt heads are PC'ed as well.

I know the look isn't original, but I like to see the hardware. I like it to stand out. I think the bolt heads on the forks (and many other applications on these bikes) had a 'black zinc' coating of some type.

I do realize that I have to be careful with when torquing (sp?) the bolts that are coated. I've been successful so far.

Scott

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:19 pm

curt1960 wrote:

Hi All,
New to this forum, so I hope i'm posting this in the right spot.
recently my son was given a cb1100f by his uncle, (well actually his wife made him get rid of it,lol) but anyway it had been sitting since 1991 in his garage and ran when he parked it. So we flushed the tank and went through the carbs, oil and filter, brakes and rotors plugs, wires, battery and tires.

We got it running strong and have put about 1,000 miles on it since going through it. just recently it started a low rpm knock lower end, my thinking rod bearing. here are my questions, should we continue to ride the bike or could we do more damage? If we go through the motor what could it cost? Can you just replace rod bearing? Oh and the bike has about 35,000 miles on it. Thanks

Low rpm knocking noise is very often the starter clutch bolts getting loose. It costs nearly nothing to check this.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:41 am

Next on the list of 1100F parts to restore were the wheels.

I would like to be telling you how I prepped the wheels to be Powder Coated, but that's not going to be the case here. I decided that I would give them the paint treatment just like I did for my 900F.

I had the tires removed from the wheels as they were pretty old and mismatched front to back. Couldn't have that. I soaked the wheels in my parts washer to remove as much grease and dirt as possible. I though I had them cleaned up pretty well.

When I got to the point where I thought I was ready to mask them for paint, I remember thinking that the 'brushed' edges on the wheels still looked pretty shabby and the black painted parts will looked almost brown from brake dust or road grime or who knows what. They definitely weren't ready for paint.

I went ahead and masked off the bearing - the center parts of each wheel, but left the rest for additional cleaning. I used a small detail sander, my drill with a 'scour pad' attachment and sand paper.

You can sand the edges of the spokes on the 1100F wheels because they are flat. They allow you to lay a small sander in there and clean up the edges of each spoke. The edges of the rim cleaned nicely using my scour pads.

After cleaning up the bright parts on the wheels, they looked like this:

So, I had all of the edges clean, but I was still not happy with how the previously painted surfaces looked... Still too dirty for paint. I think it was still September or maybe early October of last year, so I was still able to go out in the driveway and use my Soda Blaster to reach into the painted portion of the spokes. I was able to control what I sprayed the abrasive on, and to keep it off the portion that was already sanded.

After hitting the wheels with the soda they looked like this:

So, now I had the edges clean and a better pass at cleaning the grime from the previously painted surfaces.

Now, Ready to prep for paint and a decision to make... When I painted my 900F wheels (the Comstars), I was able to paint the edges of each spoke and use the sander, after the fact, to remove the paint from the flat spots on each spoke. This proved to be a success. Now, for the 1100F wheels, I had a flat portion on each spoke, but towards the center of the wheel, it comes very close to the center hub. It would be difficult - but, maybe not impossible - to get in there with a sander. And I didn't want the sander to muss with the nicely finished paint. Given that each edge of the 1100F wheel was 'sharp' (I was able to run a razor along the edge of the spoke), I decided to mask each spoke edge.

Here... a picture says a thousand words...

It took plenty of hours effort, but by using a razor (like an exacto knife) and regular painter's tape, I was able to mask each and every spoke edge. Remember also as the pictures don't show it well, the method I used to mask the rim edge is to use electrician's (black) tape that will allow you to stretch it as it is applied. That allows the curved radius that paper tape will not allow. Once I got a strip of black tape down on the edge I could get the remainder of the rim using paper tape.

After getting the entire masking job done I was happy, because it meant I wouldn't need to try to sand the paint away after the fact.

Probably you noticed here:

that I didn't mask the center raised 'spiral ribs' (not sure what to call them). Yes, they were painted black, and to be honest, I don't have plans to try to do anything about it. Maybe someone has successfully conquered this issue before and will share it here.

So now, after having the black paint applied and the mask all removed from the wheels (was no small job in itself!), here's what the finished wheels look like:

Not stopping there, I decided to go with a set of Dunlop D404's for tires. Here we go:

Getting the wheels in tip-top shape provides a lot of satisfaction once you're done. I know this part of the project was fun for me.

Once I get my brake rotors cleaned up and the center portions of each rotor painted, these wheels are going on the bike!

Thanks for reading the post.

Scott

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:13 am

OK Guys,

Time for another update...

Up to this point, I've been talking about and showing you the different assemblies that I've been working on. This time, I am going to start to bring the parts together to start building a bike. I have some photos of the finished engine going into the frame.

If you look back, you will see how I painted the engine in my own shop. Of course, after painting, I had to remove the mask that was applied and put the finished engine covers on.

Normally, I polish the alloy covers, but this time I decided to go with a gloss black valve cover look for this engine. Where ever possible, I had the engine pieces powder coated by our own TomK. I use the stainless hex head engine bolt kits and new engine cover gaskets. TomK told me he thinks the black valve cover gives the engine a 'mean' look. I didn't want a 'mean' motorcycle! Surprised

Here's my *very* black engine:

After finishing up with the engine, it was time to put the engine in the frame. Well, rather, put the frame around the engine. The way I support the engine in the dolly allows me to take the frame and just place it around/over the engine. Its really not that hard.

Of course, I have to get all of the engine mounting hardware all pretty before doing so:

I decided that I would have my frame powder coated for this project. I found a local (to Binghamton) PC shop to do my frame. I removed the VIN plate and found some blind rivets to re-attach the plate after powder coating. I think it turned out super:

So, now, with the engine mounted in the frame, I just need to start hanging the other bits and pieces all around the foundation.

Hope ya like it!

Scott

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:32 am

Very Nice! Your attention to detail is inspiring.

Going to bring it to Oneonta in June?

Steve

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:03 am

Steve,

I do hope to have it on the road by June, so there's a good chance I'll be there.

Scott

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 8:07 am

Hello Scott,looks great!!nice peace of work you did there.
Wen it is completed,you be proud of it.
Cheers,
Wim

Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:21 am

Beautiful! Keep it up!

Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:55 am

Just painted my Kosman 1100f wheel recently...I was going to do what you did there but
I didn't have enough good smoke to even try to attempt it! Confused

I cheated the taping a bit and painted the recess in each spoke with a brush....then fogged
it all into the original paint....it looks good but not like yours! Shocked

Kudos....

Jebby

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 1:49 am

So, to continue the story...

Sometime, late Summer 2012, I was able to pickup an 1100F Lattice Rearset kit from one of our members. This was during a time when I wasn't working too hard on this rebuild project. I had some of the bike's parts ready, but nothing assembled as I was busy with summer activities and riding my 900F.

I've always admired the lattice rearsets and jumped when I had a chance. First thing to do? Tear it all apart and take a look at all of the parts:

The kit was in very nice shape. Most of the parts in the kit are an alloy with just a few of the bits in a chromed steel.

I laid all of the parts out on my bench and pondered my next step... start to polish or, hmmm... not sure. Some of the items will polish up nice, but some of the items are small and irregularly shaped (tougher to get a polish on). I left it out for several weeks to think about it.

Towards the middle of Fall, 2012 and I was getting back into the rebuild project and I was still looking at all of the parts on my bench. Had to do something.

I decided that this kit was going to get blasted in my cabinet and then sent to TomK for coating using his Single Stage Silver coating. Packaged everything up and sent it to him.

One concern we had was the rear (passenger) footpegs. These are the style that have the rubber tread bonded directly onto the alloy (bottom) portion of the peg. The rubber isn't replaceable separately like most pegs are. Tom warned me about the temperatures required to cure the PC, but he said he'd give it a (test) try. After a test, he was able to mask the rubber portion and shoot the peg. No problem with any melted rubber.

After several weeks my kit returned home and I laid everything out again to make sense of it. I was able to get new rubber bits for the rider's pegs, the gearshift cover and the dustboots. I have all of the Honda part numbers if anyone is interested.

So, after getting the engine in the frame, I was able to start putting the rearset pieces to the frame.

I did have a few pieces that I was missing... the (shorter than stock) rear, lower engine mount bolt, and two of the 10mm bolts that attach the top of the rider's pegs to the rearset. My buddy, Metalganz from Holland helped me out with all of this hardware although I learned later that the 10mm 'special flange bolts' are still available from Honda.

Here's some photos as I started to bolt everything back onto the frame:

The too long rear, lower engine mount bolt:

I am very happy with the results. I don't think it could look much better!

Many thanks to TomK for his services and to Metalganz for helping me out with the hardware and to others that helped with answers to my questions on these pieces.

Scott

NEXT UP: Custom Oil Cooler installation...

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 2:17 am

Scott, your beauty is going to be too nice to put on the road.
It looks better than new.

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:21 am

Trust me... I'll be nice to this 'F'! Very Happy

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:15 am

Great paint job! Nice work.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:33 pm

Nice to see you paying attention to all the little details, that is what turns a good job in to an awesome job, keep up the good work my ocd likes the standard you are setting.

Daz. Very Happy

Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:29 am

OK Guys, time to update the build thread.

I've been working away at my 1100F project through these cold winter days. Maybe not as steady as I was earlier this winter, but still right at it.

I wanted to share the work I did with the engine oil cooler. I always liked the fact that these bikes had a 'cool' looking oil cooler. An extra mini-radiator sitting up high to help rid the engine of some of the extra heat. I also liked some of the trick looking aftermarket coolers (that I've seen on your bikes) with the braided stainless steel lines and the AN hose fittings. I wanted to try to capture some of that same look with my bike. I know it isn't a strictly stock look, but this is one deviation that I decided to take.

I started by taking the stock oil lines and removing the 'press-fit' clamps that Honda used to seal the pipe fittings to the hose. The first time I did this kind of surgery (on my 900F project), I was worried about what I was getting into, but this time I knew better. Just use your trusty grinder and have at those fittings.

I look at the stock oil cooler lines:

And a look at the hose end after being put to my grinder:

With a little work and persuation from a hammer and chisel you'll have this:

Which will get you this:

So, after grinding all four ends of your two hoses, this is what you're after:

Now that you have your four hose fittings, what's next? I like the look of the stainless braided hoses. I always have. I was able to determine that an -10 AN Stainless hose will fit over these fittings very nicely. The -10 AN Braided hoses and a hose clamp with a cover to dress it up a little.

My source for the -10 AN braided lines (cut to length as specified): http://www.ebay.com/itm/230397537751?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

My choice for a hose clamp cover: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-3162

I wanted to bring a little of the red color to my bike. The Spectre Performance hose covers looked nice to me. Here's a look:

Time to perform the installation. Here's a look at where we're working:

There are a couple of brackets that secure the oil hoses mid way between the oil pan and the cooler itself. I had these parts PC'd as well:

Be aware of the fact that the braided lines are not quite as thick (outside diameter) as the stock hoses are. So even after using the original rubbers that surround the oil hose (that fit into the two halves of the clamp that hold the hoses in place), I needed to shim the hoses so they were secure in the clamps. That was easy enough to do using some heater hose that I had about the shop. That way, the hoses are held securely in place.

Here's a few shots of the finished assemblies going into place:

By now, you've noticed another liberty I took with my installation. I wanted a little extra 'pop' to my installation and I discussed the idea with our PC expert, TomK. I asked him what he could do with a red PC. He suggested a translucent color treatment (like a Kandy color) and I sent him my oil hose fittings for the treatment.

He did a two stage translucent... first a silver, then the color coat. I remember he sent me some photos after he was done and I was really pleased with the results.

All that work and I go and hide them up inside the cooler assembly. I wanted some extra color, but I wanted to do it in a subtle manner. Hey... It works for me! Cool

Here's some shots after I got everything buttoned up:

After getting everything sized up and positioning the fittings on the hoses, I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone. The clamps and the silicone have made for a leak free installation for me on my 900F where I did about the same thing.

I'd like to do a few more pieces using the two stage red from TomK, but I haven't come up with any new ideas (but I will!).

Oh yes, I had the cooler PC'ed in silver as well by Tom.

Anyhow, hope ya like it!

Scott

Up Next: Stock turn signal refinishing.

Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 12:46 am

OK Guys, Time for an update...

I haven't been devoting a ton of time to this project. I am close to 'wrapping up', but I'm not quite there yet. I hope to bring this bike to the NE ride in Oneonta, but I can't guarantee that it will be ready. I'll do what I can.

I wanted to continue my build thread with the explanation of how I restored my turn signals. I've got some photos to share as well.

The turn signals on this bike were pretty decent when I first brought it home. but the certainly weren't great considering the age of the bike. Typical droopy turn signal 'stays' (the rubber parts that support the turn signal body) and scratches on the bodies and lenses. I took everything apart and started with this set of parts:

I like to get the turn signal body isolated from the rubber support stay, the lenses off, the screws separated and the gaskets out (in one piece of possible). Once everything is apart, I like to start working the turn signal bodies.

These bodies were typical with some scratches and gouges. These even had some white paint spattered on them. I sand them in preparation for paint. I usually start with a 320 grit and work my way up to and 800 or a 1000 grit. I usually work at the kitchen sink where I have a small stream of water running to keep my sandpaper from clogging. After sanding the bodies look hazy and whiter like this:

I use the SEM satin black bumper coater paint for painting plastic surfaces. I picked this tip up somewhere on this board or a different one ... not sure. I also use the SEM plastic primer (adhesion promoter). I've had good luck with these products. I stick with these after a difficult time of painting the plastic instrument cluster housing from a 900F. I've had paint bubble up and wrinkle after spraying onto the plastic (that was frustrating!). Not with the SEM products... these work great.

Here's a look at the turn signal bodies after several coats of the SEM bumper coater:

The lenses were replaced with new Honda lenses:

Hope there was something here that was informative to someone.

Scott

Up Next: New seat cover...

Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 1:33 am

This is going to be a very sweet looking 1100F when finished. Keep up the good job and thanks for the inspiration.

Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:25 am

Hey out there!

Sorry for such the delay in getting to my story. You know how it goes with Summer and family and things like that. Hardly any time to even ride!

I'll try to get back to my thread here. Next item that I wanted to cover was the Seat Recovering operation. TomK had a great write-up on how he did his, so not much of this will be news to you all. I did spring for one of the Harbor Freight pneumatic staplers ( http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/nailers-staplers/20-gauge-wide-crown-stapler-68029.html ). That really made the job a lot more pleasant. I was happy that I did that.

I ordered the Pit Replica seat from Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB1100F-1983-CB900F-1981-1982-CB750F-1979-1982-SEAT-COVER-HACP-/180877455991?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1d22f277&vxp=mtr These come from China and take over a week to ship. These covers are really nice and worth the money. This was the second cover I've purchased and both came as promised.

On to my Story:

Here's the seat before I started:

Here's how I removed the original staples. Just a flat bladed screwdriver that let me get under each of them. Took about 10-15 minutes:

Here's what it looks like as you are removing the cover:

The cover comes with a new strap that needs to be cut to length. Use your original strap hardware. I was able to polish mine up and make them look nice again. Paint or PC is an option too. Here's how I attached the cleaned up strap ends:

Warm up the new cover by letting it sit in the sun or a warm lamp. The material will stretch a little more allowing a cleaner, tighter install job. I positioned the front of the cover (part that touches the tank) properly and started working back from there. It was easy to remove a staple or two, reposition and continue if necessary.

Here are a few shots of that activity:

I was able to set the pressure for the stapler so that none of the staples came through the seat foundation into the new cover. I used the shortest staples I could find.

Here's the finished cover on the bike:

I hope someone was able to benefit from my experience. This part of the process wasn't difficult at all.

Until next update...

Scott

PS. Up next, Carburetor installation.

Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 3:03 am

Nice job Scott - the seat looks beautiful.

Good to see you back on here - I was wondering where you went off to. Get that bike done so you can start riding it. I want to see pictures of it finished too.

Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:21 pm

Tom,

Thanks for the comments.

Oh, I check in most every day, just got things going on.

The bike is 'done'... I just haven't gotten to that part of my build thread. Another update and then, the finished product. I'll get to that here pretty soon!

Scott

MB-5 Joined: Jun 14, 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Australia

Man , I want you as my neighbour !! . Great Job

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:26 pm

Great work.

Good on ya!

Jose

Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:17 am

Well, Rainy night here in Upstate New York... and for most of the Northeast as far as that goes. Rainy, cool summer so far. Wish things would change and I could get my 1100F (and 900F) out to one of the local bike nights here in Binghamton. Lots of Harleys at these meets, but everyone *loves* the old Hondas. This 1100F should be no exception!

Anyhow... trying to wrap this whole build thread up... tonight, I have a story to tell about mounting the carburetors. I know that's always a favorite subject of us F'ers... Anyhow.

I had the carburetors town down and completely cleaned two winters ago (Winter of 2012). I learned all about that subject from *you* (everyone on the forum). This set was clean and wrapped up just waiting to be installed. Now was the time!

One problem I encountered during the carb installation on my 900F was that once I put them in place and let the fuel flow, I learned that my float valves were leaky. I figured that I wanted to get that problem nipped in the bud as it is *lots* easier to get at the bowls when the carbs are off the bike as opposed to on. I decided that a 'bench test' was in order... I hooked up the carbs to my remote tank and let the fuel flow to make sure that all the seals were working properly.

Here's my setup. Carbs on the bench:

You'll notice, right off the bat, that I'm one that does away with the vacuum activated automatic fuel valve. I always use my petcock and I don't like the looks of the valve contraption anyhow. You also probably know that on the 1100F the auto fuel valve also serves to split the fuel line into two as the carb bank has two fuel inputs. I needed a neat and simple method to make the 'T' and the 90 degree bend. I found these nifty fitting on ebay. Take a look:

Ebay site that sells the brass fittings:

Ebay Link

I use the Motion Pro fuel line for my installations as it is very flexible and easy to work with (some of the other tubing is 'plasticy' and hard).

Once I got the fuel line set up, I elevated my carb bank so that if I had a leak, I would be able to catch the fuel (in the cups). Here's my setup:

Here's my remote tank setup. These things are really handy.

After all of the precautions, it turned out that this set of carbs was tight and dry. No leaks! So, now they go onto the bike.

I used new 'insulators' as the ones that were there were old and hard. No sense trying to work with that. I got all of the clamps in place, used a ratchet strap to pull the airbox back and I warmed the insulators with a heat gun. All tips and trick I learned from *you*. Even after all of this you still wish you had at least another inch of clearance!

Here's a look at both sides:

I think we all know the drill... balance the heavy carbs in one hand while you attach the push cable, the pull cable AND the choke cable. Ok, now, do you best to push that thing between the rubber connectors. Oh yeah, don't mess up the rubbers that are installed into the airbox. Do all of this with little to no room to speak of. After some messing we all get them in and they look like this:

I even got some nice new overflow tubing installed and routed so it was out of the way:

So now, with the carbs in, I was ready to do the carb sync operation. I don't have pictures of this part of the operation, but I do have a video of the first start while I was working to get them synced.

Link

Bike running... Carbs synced... bodywork on... fix a couple nagging problems... You know how it goes. What's left?

Scott

Next up... finished bike pics!