Motor Oil

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:33 am

Outback_Jon wrote:

Pointdiver wrote:

Jebbysan wrote:

I use Bridgestone BT45r's.....they handle well....

Jebby

I like the Chinese tires, what the biggest I can put on the back? Laughing

Chinese tires? You want to get a thread going, suggest car tires!

I cant resist...... Twisted Evil

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:39 am

Jebbysan wrote:

Once again I will share a story....I put some Mobil 15w40 I had laying around in my Warrior quad a few months back and almost immediatley the clutch started slipping in third gear. Changed it out to Honda GN4...and it immediately started to grab again...never seen anything like it.

You must use motorcycle specific oil for wet clutch. The End.

Jebby

Or not.

I have 20+ years of using non-motorcycle oil without clutch slipping. (Current bike has 51k on the clock, and all except for the first 4k miles has been automotive, or more recently, heavy-duty truck, oil) The one time I did, it was because I was using 20W50 and the bike (Honda 750F SOHC) was cold. (Like 40F cold.) But a thicker than spec oil, in a cold climate, that was likely to happen.

Just out of curiosity, in your anecdotal evidence, what weight oil is spec for the quad? And what weight was the Honda GN4 that you put in?

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:41 am

Pointdiver wrote:

I cant resist...... Twisted Evil

Look at the advantages! It doesn't even need a kickstand.

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:43 am

[quote="Pointdiver
I cant resist...... Twisted Evil

[/quote]

Hey, That thing got work just fine.....No Pods see!

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:03 am

At the risk of killing another kitten... I've been using Castrol in every vehicle I've ever owned since the early '80s. Remember the Mobil 1 ad where they compare themselves as being better to hundreds of brands of oil? Did you notice that Castrol was always missing? Stuff does what it's supposed to do.

BTW, I use 20W50 motorcycle oil in my bikes and Avon tires.

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:12 am

Pointdiver wrote:

DrOlds wrote:

Does the bike use Pods?

And put your location into your profile before posting!

Then again I think the new software eliminates that one. Laughing

If we use Pods does that make us Podifiles?

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:25 am

And back to reality I use Honda oil filters exclusively and use Honda 10/30 in the Fall (then into spring) and Castrol Motorcycle grade 20/50 in the heat of the summer. I tried Amsoil Motorcycle grade 20/50 2 summers ago and my bike ran noticeably hotter so that was the last time I tried that brand.

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:57 pm

To keep stirring the pot, I've settled on using Mystik 15w50 semi-syn diesel oil (farm and fleet, re labeled Citgo products). It's ~$12.50 a gallon, stays thick when hot, runs clean, shifts well, and my clutch doesn't slip. In fact, ever since removing the chatter plate it's harder to keep the clutch from sticking! All the oil analyses I can find of this brand show it to be comparable to the other big oil names with plenty of additives and the proper viscosity range.

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

my first 11f bought 01/12, the previous owner (since '87) used Castrol 20w50 & stated the oil was changed every 2500 ish.
It is original except for a new clutch . odometer shows 86k. this bike does not burn any oil that I can determine ( i've been looking).
no blue smoke noticeable. no oil on the floor .

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:43 pm

Outback_Jon wrote:

Jebbysan wrote:

Once again I will share a story....I put some Mobil 15w40 I had laying around in my Warrior quad a few months back and almost immediatley the clutch started slipping in third gear. Changed it out to Honda GN4...and it immediately started to grab again...never seen anything like it.

You must use motorcycle specific oil for wet clutch. The End.

Jebby

Or not.

I have 20+ years of using non-motorcycle oil without clutch slipping. (Current bike has 51k on the clock, and all except for the first 4k miles has been automotive, or more recently, heavy-duty truck, oil) The one time I did, it was because I was using 20W50 and the bike (Honda 750F SOHC) was cold. (Like 40F cold.) But a thicker than spec oil, in a cold climate, that was likely to happen.

Just out of curiosity, in your anecdotal evidence, what weight oil is spec for the quad? And what weight was the Honda GN4 that you put in?

It specs for 10w40 in the Yammy manual up to 80 degrees F.....it was after the heat broke.....I used 10w40 GN4 that I had....slip went away.

I can't resist either:

Jebby

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:38 pm

I just love this statment. I used the same stuff for 30 yrs.

Now for the dim witted,the damn government has CHANGED the oils. They pulled the zinc out of the oil and added friction modifiers as a replacement. This is a half witted change because auto does not have the clutch in the oil or for that matter the starter clutch in the oil.

The Japanese were first to discover this and came out with the JASO-MA standard because auto oil is crap. In fact look this up in hot rod auto magazines or literature. Engines that use flat tappet cams suddenly fail cams because the zinc is gone. New simliar old engines,say small block Chevy or Mopar now have roller lifter tappets and NO valve spring tension. This why the engines of old would spin 6000+ rpm and the new ones barely make 4000 rpm.

In fact one of the first to discover this was racers that used the "green" formula Kendall. Their fresh case of oil was not green anymore,but "same stuff on the carton" and all of a sudden had motor failures. The original green formula Kendall is now remarketed as Brad Penn from the "old" Kendall refinery.

We are not making this shit up. The zinc penetrates the important things but eventually wears off and is needed in bikes.

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

why was the zinc taken out of the oils?

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 12:02 am

It "poisons" catalytic converters. Not plug them up just renders them ineffective.

The auto mfgs were on the hook for EPA compliance for 50,000 miles and the converters went at say 30,000. The mfgs made changes in the engines,ie weak springs and roller tappets so new stuff would live,but the older ones had problems. The fast stuff had the real problems. Small block Chevy cam mfgs had cam grinds that worked great for say 20 yrs than all of a sudden they all started failing.

This is why Bradd Penn,say Joe Gibbs racing and others have came out with increased zinc oils.

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

fascinating ! Iremember when the house paint mfr's took the lead & mercury out of the exterior paint . damn paint would last 3 yrs then you 'd need to repaint. Sooo.. if I was to drop some of my aunt's zinc supplements into the crankcase .... Shocked

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:15 am

why not just buy oil with zinc left in it, such as motorcycle, Brad Penn, or many diesel specific oils. Automotive oil is no longer any good in a motorcycle.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 2:19 am

They covered a lot of the bases. There used to be a product called STP Newer Car Treatment. It is not there any more. When it showed up in Big Lotts stores I bought all I could find.

Regular old STP had the thickeners stuff,ie motor honey and zinc. The zinc is gone from it,read the label.

A friend reloads ammunition. Had this old discusting bottle of STP he used on his sizing die. Finally ran out and went to get a fresh bottle. Then all of a sudden the shells would stick in the die,so obvious something was different.

Anyway easy description is to buy JASO-MA oil that has the old additive package. By the way I use this in auto and do not believe the crap about removing the zinc is good. Look around while you are driving and notice the newer vehicles smoking like a freight train at traffic lights. I say are because the rings and valves and anyplace there is sliding friction is rapidly wearing because the assholes removed the zinc. Maybe is "cleaner" for the first 50,000 miles but before the car is junked a lot dirtier.

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

i have a frigging headache thinking about all this stuff . i think i will bury my head back into the sand.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:36 am

I like this. You guys can talk about dead kittens all you want, but I read something really important in this post.

Use 20-50 JASO-MA. I keep hearing it over and over.

Sonicrete, your exactly right about the first 50K miles. This is why in japan they get rid of their motors after 50K and ship them to use. They wont pass their smog req's anymore.

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

pulled my head out of the sand and went online:

yes use 20w50 JASO-MA

go to http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/motorcycle_oil_technical_facts.htm

do not use 20w50 for auto applications, ie castrol gtx

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

brad penn's site (read about zinc) http://www.penngrade1.com/NewsStory.aspx?id=5

Twinstar Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 70 Location: maryland

http://performanceoilstore.com/index.htm

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:03 am

Basically go back 15 years or so. The two best oils were Valvoline Racing Oil or Kendall Racing Oil.

Just so happened that the zinc level was the highest in these two compared to all others.

Must have also been the basic oil film strengh as well,but these are what everyone used.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:26 pm

Splat! Oil and Kittens

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:39 pm

Do you actually think that is funny? About as funny as that stupid which is faster blue or red.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 5:37 pm

sonicrete wrote:

Do you actually think that is funny? About as funny as that stupid which is faster blue or red.

It's called sarcasm, Bill. An advanced concept in human interchange, no doubt.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:55 pm

Silver and Yellow is faster!!!!!!

BTW....I use NGK spark plugs....they work best....but only after I soak them in motorcyle oil and wipe
them off on my Bridgestones.

Jebby

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:04 pm

Jebbysan wrote:

BTW....I use NGK spark plugs....they work best....but only after I soak them in motorcyle oil and wipe
them off on my Bridgestones.

Do you Armor-All your Bridgestones first? Since I'm sure you Armor-All your seat, too. Makes the treads nice and shiny.

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:10 pm

Outback_Jon wrote:

Jebbysan wrote:

BTW....I use NGK spark plugs....they work best....but only after I soak them in motorcyle oil and wipe
them off on my Bridgestones.

Do you Armor-All your Bridgestones first? Since I'm sure you Armor-All your seat, too. Makes the treads nice and shiny.

Of course I Armor-All the tires and seat......it help the plug conduct electricity.....it runs better too.....but I never know how much as I slide off the back and watch it roll down the road.

Jebby

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:43 pm

Jebbysan wrote:

Silver and Yellow is faster!!!!!!

BTW....I use NGK spark plugs....they work best....

Jebby

I used Accel plugs in my F they are the best and BLACK is faster by the way.

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:43 am

F'n retards