Hello

Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 1:00 am

Hey guys I have been reading all the good articles here, mainly the GSXR carb mod for the cb750. I own a '79 cb750k that I am building a 833cc stroker for. Figured I'd say hello because I have decided to go with the VM33's and this seems like a good spot to find them. I just have to shake my stock carbs first, to get some cash together. I won't be posting much where I don't own a F model but this is a great spot to see a lot of the performance stuff. Thanks.

Hawk Joined: Dec 19, 2007 Posts: 356 Location: New Zealand

Hi there - Welcome to the Best Place for all your F needs.

Shake that 750K a bit harder & get a F...

Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:17 pm

welcome to the F zoo ! really, this site is filled with fun and experience ! Question : why / how a stroker
motor ? what is your goal power wise ? the F part will
not keep you from doing the same with the K model.
same motor, different body style.

Posted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 11:34 pm

I had to do a rebuild anyway and have most of the parts laying around so why not. I am an engine re builder, our shop builds mostly performance engines for street or strip, so I basically wanted to build a stroker for my self. Only goal is to build an engine that can take the pounding I'm going to give it. I wouldn't fell warm and fuzzy about a strait big bore (900 pistons) not balanced like the strokers are. My buddy at our shop just finished his personal build, 438 with a dart block with 650hp, very mild build for his setup, specs on block and crank is good to at least 1200hp. Not looking to go fast all the time, just when I want to.

The stroker uses 750 cases, 900 crank, 750 rods, 750 pistons, 750 cylinders, 900 head and 900 cams.

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 3:56 pm

Won't you lose a bit of compression by using the 750 pistons and cylinders matched with the 900 head? The combustion chamber on the 900 is larger.

MB-5 Joined: Apr 02, 2011 Posts: 10 Location: Halifax

I thought the 750s with the stock 62mm stroke were zero deck pistons? how are you going to accommodate the extra 7 mm of stroke using the stock 750 piston? You certainly don't want a positive deck height. Or are you going to try to mill them to zero deck height?

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:23 pm

I will be planeing the 900 head down to match the 750 chambers cc wise, fly cutting the pistons to allow for the bigger 900 valves. I had a spacer machined to go under the cylinders along with two base gaskets to make up the difference. I am documenting this over on The Chopper Underground, I'm a chopper guy but that‘s no reason not to have a stout engine. A lot of credit goes to Outlaw over there he knows his shit and we think a lot alike which is great.

If anyone is interested, I can post the links but I know that this is really not a chopper site so I’ll do so if no one has any objections.

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:33 am

Sounds complicated to me! just buy an Hyabusa and be done with it. Laughing

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:56 am

Well I wasn't going to say anything but... I would rather be dragged behind one than ride one Very Happy

Honestly I don't care what anyone rides, but I do things my own way, because I can. It is more complicated than doing a 750 modified 900, but to me that is not really a stoker. I’m sure they perform fine, but I’m taking the lead of someone who drag raced these bikes and he hasn’t said anything yet that hasn’t made sense.

CB1100F Joined: Feb 17, 2009 Posts: 2105 Location: Oz

Go for it PR and ignore these naysayer chequebook builders.

Don

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:57 am

It's all good DonR we all do our own thing. So with any luck and a few more parts moved I'll be looking for the VM33's sooner than later Very Happy

Posted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:28 pm

DonR wrote:

Go for it PR and ignore these naysayer chequebook builders.

Don

DonR, That's funny.... Laughing

P-R, This "Outlaw" guy over at the other site, sounds like the "Sonicrete" here...

Nobody mentioned connecting rod bolts... 900 motor rod bolts seem to be inferior, proven by member "Dennisthemenace".. They crack and break apart in the spiral "valley".. I believe the 750 rod bolts are made/shaped like the 1100 bolts, but only shorter.. Don't know if the materials are the same..

Whatever route you choose, best to get bolts like the ones on the RIGHT..

Posted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:58 pm

+1 what Mel said. I just tore apart a 900 parts motor and it threw a rod because the bolt broke.

I will go to the chopper site just to see your work. I like it.

JJAM

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:34 pm

melchiro wrote:

DonR wrote:

Go for it PR and ignore these naysayer chequebook builders.

Don

DonR, That's funny.... Laughing

P-R, This "Outlaw" guy over at the other site, sounds like the "Sonicrete" here...

Nobody mentioned connecting rod bolts... 900 motor rod bolts seem to be inferior, proven by member "Dennisthemenace".. They crack and break apart in the spiral "valley".. I believe the 750 rod bolts are made/shaped like the 1100 bolts, but only shorter.. Don't know if the materials are the same..

Whatever route you choose, best to get bolts like the ones on the RIGHT..

Thanks again for the carb help, another set was up today for $400 buy it now I think I did good. As for the rods I'm useing 750's so that should be good to go. I will be useing aftermarket piston pins though.