my CB750F cafe racer build

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 1:24 am

Finally at a place where I feel good enough about posting some progress photos. I had been waiting on the BCR tank and tail so I could cut the back of the frame, weld the hoop and position and weld the rearset plates - now it's going to be full speed ahead on the build. Hope to have it painted this week-end then the reassembly can begin towards the end of the month, damn holidays getting in the way now. ;D

The mess when I brought it all home

starting to tear into it

Stripped down and engine out. Damn these bikes are heavy!! Stock rearsets, gauge cluster - everything is a crap load of weight.

Getting rid of all the useless tabs.

BCR tank/Tail

Starting to polish some of the bits.

Wire wheeled off all the rust and repainted with BBQ black with Nikita watching on.

Ahhh, that looks better.

That'll buff right out.

Not too bad for the first pass. More to come as time allows.

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 1:25 am

close up of how I did it.

Original side stand got in the way, this modified RC51 unit does the trick nicely!

Hoop turned out great.

Rearsets mounted

Well, more as I get time. Enjoy the progress so far.

Those wheels are mock-ups BTW, I have a spoked front that is going on it and if anyone has a 1975/1976 spoked rear with a rotor (not drum) i'd be interested in speaking... for now the rear will stay until I can source one.

Cheers!

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 6:14 am

Damn brother, nice build! I'm doing something similar and am going for spoked wheels as well. What front hub are you using? I'm looking at 1975-78 goldwing hubs (as they are the only honda bikes I can seem to find with spoke wheels and dual-disk front brakes) and 1975-76 750F rear hubs. I'd sure like to know what setup you go with and what issues you run into.

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 11:25 am

Nice work so far, D.
I have seen a similar rear seat bracket from Noel on the DotheTon site. Yours is a clean looking set-up.
Good looking assistant, too.

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 1:03 pm

Clifton wrote:

Damn brother, nice build! I'm doing something similar and am going for spoked wheels as well. What front hub are you using? I'm looking at 1975-78 goldwing hubs (as they are the only honda bikes I can seem to find with spoke wheels and dual-disk front brakes) and 1975-76 750F rear hubs. I'd sure like to know what setup you go with and what issues you run into.

Thanks, the front wheel I am running is a 750K single rotor unit but I have to use the 750F axle and disc to make it fit. I am going to try the single rotor and see how it works as it has that classic look I am going for. Alternatively, I am pretty sure after looking at it that it would be possible to drill the right side of the hub and use the F right rotor and bolts for a dual set-up.

Ordered my tires yesterday so once I have them mounted I'll post some pics of the set-up.

Also, I forgot to add previously that I shortened and re-threaded all the engine bolts that were used to mount the original rearsets. Makes for a cleaner more "factory" look.

Cheers

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:12 pm

NICE!!! whats the the tank and where'd it come from?

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:27 pm

Hey! Looking real good.

Steve

Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:47 pm

Try looking for a 75-78 (I think) 750F rear wheel. They were spoked and had disc brakes. Here's a link to one on ebay.

LINK

Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:16 am

Oh Origin8or,

Now you've gone and done it....I like that a LOT
www.benjiescaferacer.com BCR DOHC

Keep the pictures coming and I love the attention to detail - will be a stunning bike.

Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 9:45 pm

Nice work. I love that tank and seat.

When you polished your covers, was the Moosehead for the final finish?

Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:16 am

4carbs4cylinders wrote:

Nice work. I love that tank and seat.

When you polished your covers, was the Moosehead for the final finish?

Thanks!

Nah, covers aren't done yet, Moosehead is just part of the build... it's like oxygen, gotta have it.

Spent the day painting the bike, first time doing base clear and it turned out pretty damn well too. Don't want to post photos until it's assembled (gotta keep some suspense) but that won't be for another week at least as I am off to California to help my brother on one of his builds.

Cheers!

Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:38 am

thats inspirational! its rare to find pics of our bikes being fashioned into a nicely done cafe.

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:37 am

Well, made a little more progress on the ride. Did the paintwork - base clear and layed the stickers, assembled with tank and tail to get a feel for the look and if what I had in my head was as good in real life... yep, pretty much exact. Got the engine back in and mounted a new front tire on the spoked wheel and rolled her out for a few more photos.

I managed to source a spoke rear wheel with disc brake that is on it's way so that should finish the look. In the meantime I have a lot of wiring ahead of me and some more polishing before the first fire, but it's getting close now.

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 2:51 am

Different bike but.... as I was out in California last week helping my brother with his build.... here's a quick before I got there / after we finished photo set. Like the paint work? After seeing my bike he wanted to do the same scheme. Very Happy

As it was left we re-wired the entire bike from scratch and it worked, but you can see the mess. He phoned me today to say it's all tightened up now and he should be riding it within a few days. So if you see it flying around Van Nuys / Sherman Oaks give him a wave.

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:55 am

Nice looking build, both of them. Gotta love the Benji`s tank and tail, looks great in white. I`d like to do a SOHC build one day using something from them.

Evil looking RC51 by the way.

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:18 am

you boys do nice work Wink

Just out of curiosity, what's the spoked rear from? A SOHC 750-something?

I seem to remember a spoked GL front will work with dual disks, but that's an alloy rim and would be harder to match a rear to?

great work.

ian

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:59 am

Great work on both bikes.
I like the scalloped tank. Plastic? Fiberglass?
Is that a 650 Yammie in your brothers bike?

Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:08 pm

Thanks.
@bikeboy - the rear is a '75 750 SOHC unit.

@smurdoch - tank is a BCR item (benjiescaferacer.com) and it's fiberglass as is the tail. XS650 in the bobber.

Cheers

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:27 am

I'm doing the spoke thing too, but the wheels I picked up are a '77 goldwing front, and a '77 kz750b twin rear. Triple discs, proper axle sizes. Cost me a hundred bucks for the rear with shipping, but I got the disc and damper rubbers, so....

Gonna get some pics up for ya soon. Got the wheels apart for polishing hubs right now. Working out the spacers. But hey, to steer you onto something I had wanted to do but chickened out, check out this. It's embarassing, to be sure. I am socially disfunctional. But there's a good pic of the idea....

http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=57397

Gotta run. I'll be keeping tabs on that build, I'm really impressed, and if I had the scratch I'd have bought a whole lotta stuff from BCR ages ago. Sadly I'm building on the cheap. Here's a link to my photobucket, you might like some of the front end bits I've fiddled with.

http://s458.photobucket.com/albums/qq302/SoyBoySigh/

Nice to see somebody else doing a cafe build. Gotten a bit of hostility. Probably not really at the cafe thing, more like me being obnoxious. But still, cafe DOHC F bikes are a rare thing. Especially around these parts.

-Sigh.

-Sigh.

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 5:34 am

Nice work gents - well done...

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:31 am

Here, I figure I oughtta give you some resources 'F-ers here have pointed out to me. I'm sure many are familiar, but seeing as it's all good stuff for cafe racer or wire wheel related stuff, it oughtta be on any cafe thread on this site.

First of all, inspiration:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13481782@N06/2591346117/in/set-72157610600276587/

Wheel axle diameter charts. Front:

http://scandalon.com/2009/06/motorcycle-front-axle-diameter-chart/

(That's just in case you decide you want both front brakes.)

And bringing up the rear:

http://scandalon.com/2009/06/motorcycle-rear-axle-diameters/

Let's say you want to quickly see what big four Japanese bikes even had wire wheels in what years, what they looked like, etc:

http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_CB750F http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_CB900F http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_CB1100F

Some tech stuff about wire wheels I found interesting. It's for bicyclists, but I would have loved to have had this resource the last few times I've rebuilt or custom built wheels for smaller hondas. Some of it should apply here.:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Brake master cylinder to slave piston area chart. Say you wanna pick up some random E-bay stuff and work it out on paper rather than asphalt:

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm

Let's say you wanna infer from this guy's pictures as to what to buy off of E-bay.

http://www.caferacer.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12165 and http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n130/dgfischer/Fishhead%20Big%20BRakes/?albumview=slideshow

Then you need brake disc bolt hole patterns and dimensions, diameters, etc. Takes some work finding compatible stuff by trial and error:

http://www.metalgear.com.au/mgmodel.asp

(That link was thanks to an 'F-er named "andrea". Thanks again.)

These guys list a lot of parts fiche on their site, and sell a lot of rare OEM parts.

http://www.cmsnl.com/

And seeing as you had money for the BCR tank, (Ooh, how about those choice fork shrouds, hey? http://www.benjiescaferacer.com/ForkCvr.html I figure I'll have to make mine out of old tin cans ha ha. ) if you can afford that, then I figure you can afford some choice tank emblems the like of which I will never have.

http://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/vintage-honda-spares/tank-emblem-ca-cl-cb72/-77/prod_369.html

Or these semi-vintage compatible digital instruments. I figure not having to buy replacement cables would pay for it in short order.

http://www.acewell-meter.com/c1.php

Or to have somebody build you up some custom spokes or such-not:

http://www.buchananspokes.net/

Right now I'm looking into better info on fiberglas moulding. Wanna design my own side-panels, fairing, etc. Any pointers would be great.

-Sigh.

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:56 am

WOW, thanks for all the links. I found a 76 wire rear wheel so I am good on that front. Had to order a new sprocket as the 76 came with a 48 and the 82 has a 45 - I opted for a 46.
Not keen on the retro honda emblems or those fork covers, not the look I am after, but thanks anyway.

Got the BCR tank lined, and to anyone doing this sort of thing a word of caution on the caswell kit at least... it's 2 part resin which consists of the main resin and the activator. When it was mixed it thickened up pretty quickly so I got it in the tank, rotated it all around as per the instructions and let the excess run out the filler hole as best I could. Just in case there was a little left inside I figured I would stand the tank up and let it cure in the front. After about 20 minutes I checked on it again and it had gotten so hot that it started to bubble the clearcoat! I can wet sand that out I figure so not a complete fail but a pain nonetheless.

I also made a pan beneath the seat to mount all of my wiring and hold the rear mounted battery but I am stuck on some wiring at the moment maybe you guys can help...

Here is a photo of the stock right side controls and what has me stuck is the start button running 4 wires where my R6 replacement unit uses only 2.
The push button start on the CB seems to make contact on the middle two wires - the BLK - BLU/WHT based on me taking it all apart, so what's with the YEL/RED wire?

My R6 unit is as follows:
Blue and Black wires are the start push button
Red/Blk - Run
Red/Wht - Kill

Any ideas how to wire 6 original wires into these 4? What if any can be omitted?

Cheers

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:10 am

Looks like I solved it... maybe

CB ------------------------ R6
Yel/Red + Blu/Wht ----------- Blu/Wht
Blk + Blk/Red ---------------- Red/Blk
Blk/Wht ---------------------- Red/Wht + Blk

So all works as it should - kill switch, key, start button. The only question now is, does the CB headlight only come on when the bike is running? My headlight comes on when the start button is pushed only, not when the key is turned.

Cheers

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:26 am

origin8or wrote:

The only question now is, does the CB headlight only come on when the bike is running? My headlight comes on when the start button is pushed only, not when the key is turned.

Cheers

we don't have that system here, but as I understand it the headlight gets power at ignition, and interrupts when the starter is pushed.

Looks like this:

Red/black is hot from the fuse. Blue/white powers the low beam via the dimmer switch. Black is hot for the starter. Yellow/red is switched power to the solenoid.

It sounds like you have the blue/white getting the same feed as the yellow/red? That's why it's only operating when starter is on. Your R6 switch may not be set up to operate the same way? You could bypass the interrupt, but that means you're loading the battery keeping the headlight on while you start up, with no way to turn it off (other than ignition)

hope that makes sense??

ian

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:04 pm

Ah! I'm on the horns of an enema myself what with the starter button wires. Don't put any weight on my opinion, but I do concur. That second pair of wires seem to be for something to do with cutting out the headlight during start-up.

But I'm glad I'm not alone on this one. Same problem, different switches. I've polished up a nice set of aluminum switches off of a KZ440ltd, I think they're the same as most other KZ switches and a lot like early CB switches. Anyways, After I'd gone through all of the other wiring and made sure it would work, stripped paint, polish and buff, everything else; I go through the wiring diagrams once again and see there's only two wires on the KZ starter button, and four on the CB. Seems the KZ loop uses a relay to disconnect the other stuff while the starter is going, or perhaps to cut the starter as soon as ignition kicks in, can't tell which yet. But, from what I understand of the CB diagram I'm pretty sure that's the headlight kill that's in the loop with the starter button. Truth be told, I feel like it's sort of a flimsy set up for the headlight, and I've had intermittent headlight problems in the middle of a ride, (as in, hit it like Fonzee and it works again) on other bikes including that old KZ actually so it's something I'd like to put right. If it's possible to wire in a little relay to cut the headlight during start-up then that's what I'll do. Will refrain from using the KZ relay if I can afford to, ha-ha. I think it woud be really important to keep the headlight cut out. What with the amps drawn on the battery you want to be able to run that starter as long as you can when you're in the middle of nowhere, right? In the past I've used a lot of five dollar Napa car headlights, which probably run more juice than the stock light, so I've got to drop amps where I can.

What I've done with other parts of the switches is I've soldered the proper colour of wire to the switch terminals. I want to run the wires inside the handlebars. My old '70 cb100 (also a supersport, I believe) had internal wiring, and the look is unmistakable. Ever since then, I look at any bike and I notice the wiring on the bars. It just looks sloppy to me, it's not that I'm going for the chopper look here, more like the cb100 look. My first love. Anyways, the reason I am going with the wires straight to the terminals, is the coloured wires are there in the first place for when you're busted at the side of the road with a cop looking over your shoulder wanting you to fix that broken tail-light or what-not, or worse yet with nobody around and an ignition problem or a bad ground. I know, none of that shit should happen once I've re-wired the bike, and I should remember the wiring for a long time once I've done the switch. But, I'm thinking far past that. I'd like to be riding the bike far longer than a new wiring harness is gonna last. And I probably won't be the last owner, I want to give it to my step-daughter. What's another twenty-eight years, right? Probably have to put sails on it, or pedals, or solar cells, by then. In a future without gas, if I'm distilling my own alcohol I'd probably need to drink it all. Pedals it is. In any case, you get my point.

What would be handy, would be a kit including extra lengths of wire of all the colours needed to re-build a wiring harness for any honda. The colours of wire are consistent, this is why I've gone back to being a honda guy after my brief daliance with Kawasaki. You learn the wire colours and it applies to other hondas. But you could do the same with any other brand of bike, I suppose. One could buy rolls of wire, but you wouldn't need an entire roll of light blue or orange, would you? There are a few colours I can't find off the shelf at Princess Auto. So, it would be handy as I say to be able to grab a kit with those odd colours in it.

As for the problem with the tank paint, that's a fibre-glas tank, right? I had heard some of the liners get hot. I've also read something about certain gasoline additives being harmful with fibre-glas motorcycle tanks. I guess that's why you lined it. Was thinking about the liner for the tank I'm doing up. Sort of like, "Hmmm, would it be better to paint the tank first or line it first?". Because, with the paint job, possibly some sand-able primer / body-filler, then several layers of candy metal-flake with sanding in between all those layers. So, you would think all of that vibration would loosen the tank lining, wouldn't it? And, I was thinking, what about the liner, would that process screw up the candy? Whether the heat or the product itself dripping on the clear-coat and eating a hole. You can't just sand a hole in candy and patch it up, or so I've heard. By the way, I really like the total bike being in one colour. I'd like to see that in different colours too. Maybe you should build a series.

I also like the look with the rounded tank you put on the bike. That's what I've been going for too. At the same time, I wanted some remnant of the F to show through on each part I'm changing. Sort of like an F from an alternate universe where people like Pierre Terblanche were never allowed to "Katana-ize" a perfectly good GS1000. You know, if I went back in time and killed off the creators of Battlestar Galactica, Miami-vice, a few coke dealers. It would be as though certain prevailing fashion/design trends never took place, and the F bike, the 900, the 1100, would have continued to evolve in the vein of the original K. Imagine if you will, a '69 cb900k, a sandcast cb1100k, a tubular-framed vf1200-K.... Hell, you're building a cafe from a cb750f. You know what I mean.

So I took a spare F tank and pounded the shit out of it. Worked pretty good, actually. Got a pic or two of the process on photobook. Will probably cost as much as your BCR when I'm done with it, if not more. Especially if I wind up replacing the gas cap, and I do want the original cap if I can get away with it. I want to go with fuel injection some distant day, but the sending unit would require yet more tank welding, or a remote pump which isn't cheap. Probably there's a remote sending unit on some model of vehicle, somewhere. Sitting in a scrap yard, one would hope. In any case, the tank is something you only want to do once. I was hoping there was some sort of gun-kote type of clear-coat that would be heat and gas and brake fluid resistant. Still up in the air whether to clear-coat all of the parts I've polished. In the middle of polishing each spoke right now. I think I hear them calling.

Oh, and don't thank *me* for the links. Those were mostly all given to me by other 'F-ers on this site. Gawd bless 'em.

-Sigh.

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:35 pm

Oh, and by the way. I don't get the bit about the R6 switch having one pair of wires, or one wire with two colours ... in any case which ever it is, it doesn't make sense that there'd be one for run and one for kill. Kill means not having the run wires connected. Maybe a newer system has been developed, I dunno. But it seems like if you hook up the F like that problems will occur....

-Sigh.

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:43 pm

As posted in the schematic above, the CB push button start has 4 wires used in it where the R6 push button start only has 2. The 2 colors in the R6 push start are blue and black.

@BikeBoy thanks for the diagram, do you have the complete image?

Cheers

SoyBoySigh wrote:

Oh, and by the way. I don't get the bit about the R6 switch having one pair of wires, or one wire with two colours ... in any case which ever it is, it doesn't make sense that there'd be one for run and one for kill. Kill means not having the run wires connected. Maybe a newer system has been developed, I dunno. But it seems like if you hook up the F like that problems will occur....

-Sigh.

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:16 pm

Right. Sorry. Yeah, it's two wires and they're on the kill switch. That's how I wired mine. It was just the way it was typed.

I think the wiring diagram that bikeboy shows there is in the Hanes manual There's only a black and white in my clymer manual. If I can figure out how to scan and e-mail it to you, I'll do it. It doesn't seem to be available on the site, probably for copyright reasons. Can't find it in the technical documents or via search. Can't even get the kid's web-cam to work.
But, having researched the issue before I have notes on my wiring diagram. As per those notes, the red/black wire is a hot 10amp line, the blue with white stripe is the lead to the headlight dimmer switch (as in it goes to the other switch and then to the headlight), the black is a main power line (which as Bikeboy says goes to the starter but let me eplain that) and the red and yellow goes to the starter solenoid. From what I can see from my diagram, the black wire traces back to the regulator rectifier and feeds the fuse block as well. What I think it is, is it is the hot power for the starter, and the red and yellow is the continuation of that power, as Bikeboy says "the switched power" for the starter. The red with black is fused power so that it doesn't blow the headlight bulb, but is basically the same thing. As I say, the black wire feeds the fuse block, so it's basically the same thing if you had a fuse inside the switch, but that would be stupid as it's hard to change a fuse in there, right?

Am I to read what you said above exactly? "The headlight comes on only when the starter button is pushed" (or do you mean to say that the headlight only turns off when the starter button is switched? Do you mean that the headlight works when the bike is running but not before the engine comes to life?) The way things are supposed to work is just as Bikeboy said. Lights (dim headlight, running lights) on at the switch, headlight off while the start button is pushed, and lift your thumb off the button and the light should come right back on. If I read what you typed exactly and the light comes on when you push the button, then perhaps you've got the starter and headlight looped together on the same circuit.

CB ------------------------ R6
Yel/Red + Blu/Wht ----------- Blu/Wht
Blk + Blk/Red ---------------- Red/Blk
Blk/Wht ---------------------- Red/Wht + Blk

Okay, so here you're saying you've twisted together the yellow with red stripe and the blue with white stripe together and hooked them to the blue with white stripe wire on the R6 starter. Do I read that correctly?

I'm more grammatical than diagrammatical, so you'll have to excuse me.

And you've spun the red with white and the black in your R6 switch together and hooked them to the black with white wire in the cb harness? I think I see a problem there. The yellow with red goes to the starter and the blue with white goes to the headlight. You've hooked the two together and hooked them to the blue and white on the R6 switch, which I gather from your next post about the R6 switch is one of the wires on the starter. You say blue right there, I think you mean blue with white stripe. I can't see the thing. The other wire you say is black. You also say, if I am reading your chart right, that the black R6 wire is hooked to a red and white wire in the switch and then to the black with white wire in the harness?

So I think somehow the headlight is still running on the fused line because of that black and white which is on a fuse. And that's why it didn't blow. And I think that fused line might be the hot power you have running to the starter, etc. Not sure, because the R6 switch isn't in front of me. That circuit is probably connected through the other three wires you've connected which I would bet are on the kill switch. I mean, where else would they be, right? According to my diagram, the honda killswitch is hooked up to the black wire and the black and white wire. If I remember the harness correctly there are two black wires goint into the switch which are soldered together a few inches further down the line from the switch. Hence, six wires and five colours.

It's making my brain take a dump. But I think things are mixed up in there. Things are working, but not everything, right?

All I can offer you, and me seeing as I am doing the same thing on my KZ switches (don't go thinking I'm trying to be helpful here, I gave up on this problem in frustration....) is what I have traced from the diagram and harness:

As I said above. Red with a black stripe is a hot 10 amp fused line which is meant for the headlight.

Blue with a white stripe is connected to the headlight via the dimmer switch on the other side of the bars. Black is hot power off of the regulator/rectifier and is coming into the switch-pot with two heads one for the engine kill switch and the other for the starter, and the red with yellow goes to the block connector that hooks up to the starter motor.

(Herein lies my confusion as to how that starter operates and I might have to take a look at that connector block to see where that red and yellow wire relates to the starter, and thereby how to put in the relay I was thinking would fix this problem)

The black with white wire in the honda harness is part of the kill switch, and is connected to both the spark units and the ignition coils.

What makes sense to me would be to connect the red and black wire and the blue with white wires together. Thus, the headlight has no interruption. I'll later hook a relay into this loop that interrupts this circuit when the starter button is pressed. So, you'd take either one of the starter button wires and they'd make up the other two connections for this fictitious, or hopefully hypothetical, relay. In the mean time you'd just have a bike that drains more power while it's starting, like I was talking about before. Or maybe you could go totally illegal and have a headlight kill switch and hope you don't get run over because of it. That's not what I'm doing, and I hope you don't either.

Your starter button should have the blue and black wires hooked up to the black and red-with-yellow-stripe wires.

I take it the remaining wires on the R6, red with white stripe or bands or polka dots ... and the red with black lettering spelling out the word "fuck" over and over again

Sorry, the kid wants the computer and is pestering me.....

Yes, well those two wires should be hooked up to the kill switch. I don't think it matters which way but it probably does. I just can't think straight right now.

"Does it make you feel uncomfortable if I touch your knee? Does it make you feel uncomfortable if I touch your elbow? Does it make you feel uncomfortable if I touch your nose?...."

I am quickly becoming uncomfortable. Got to go.

-Sigh.

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:37 pm

SoyBoySigh wrote:

What would be handy, would be a kit including extra lengths of wire of all the colours needed to re-build a wiring harness for any honda.

These guys have the correct gauge wire, with the proper thin insulation, in most of the colour combinations (can't find one they don't have):

Vehicle Wiring Products

Look under the Ref 16 the 16.5 amp drop-down. You can order by the meter, or a roll. Haven't tried their wire, but their connectors are good quality, and as close to OEM as you'll get.

I keep promising myself one day I'll re-do my harness Rolling Eyes

ian

Posted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:17 pm

Found this site for some wiring diagrams: http://cycles.evanfell.com/2010/03/simple-motorcycle-wiring-diagram-for-choppers-and-cafe-racers/

I am still at it Very Happy

Cheers