Where to buy clutch steels?

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 5:02 am

I am going over the clutch in my 900f and need to buy 2 steels to replace the riveted plate. My stock steels check out. They are well under wear limit and haven't been blued by slipping but the fibers are paper thin and rock hard. Z1 enterprises, my usual parts supplier, is out of stock on steels and I don't know who manufactures their fiber plates but their prices are good. The EBC 1149 clutch kit has a good rep but that still leaves me ordering the steels separately for $18 a piece from from the local dealership, and they want $12.50 for the fibers. Those prices are more than double from z1. Where else can I find the steels?

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 5:42 am

Buy a complete used clutch pack from fleabay

Hawk Joined: Aug 20, 2009 Posts: 351 Location: Indiana

not a bad idea assuming the *used* clutch pack doesn't have the same type of wear he is trying to avoid Confused

I would ask for as much info as possible as to not end up with a used pack with worn crap

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 8:45 am

I would assume the fibre plates are U/S but the steels are most likely OK - I have about ten used clutch packs and the steels are up to spec in all of them.

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 11:38 am

sorry I didn't mean to post here

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 12:50 pm

Ya, sorry....I bought Z1 all out of steels Embarassed

(Seriously Shocked

)

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 1:24 pm

They've been out of stock for awhile.... When did you buy them out? I have had this repair on the backburner for awhile and kept checking back to see the parts availability but they're still OOS.

Free shipping to the dealer isn't much consolation when they want 3x as much Rolling Eyes

Hawk Joined: Aug 20, 2009 Posts: 351 Location: Indiana

thx113 wrote:

I would assume the fibre plates are U/S but the steels are most likely OK - I have about ten used clutch packs and the steels are up to spec in all of them.

so you're saying he can get them from you? Laughing

Posted: Sun May 02, 2010 10:12 pm

I have two sitting on my shelf.And I will sell them if interested.They came out of an 1100 but I do believe they are the same.

MB-5 Joined: Apr 06, 2010 Posts: 12 Location: Florida

CB750PARTSDEPOT has them in stock, if you still need them,http://www.cb750partsdepot.com/Clutch_c24.htm, hope this can help. They sell for $9.00 steel, each and $6.00 friction, each.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 12:09 am

Grebnaws wrote:

They've been out of stock for awhile.... When did you buy them out? I have had this repair on the backburner for awhile and kept checking back to see the parts availability but they're still OOS.

Free shipping to the dealer isn't much consolation when they want 3x as much Rolling Eyes

I bought 8 steels on 4/20...and I see now they hiked the price up also since my purchase

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 12:12 am

coreyxh wrote:

thx113 wrote:

I would assume the fibre plates are U/S but the steels are most likely OK - I have about ten used clutch packs and the steels are up to spec in all of them.

so you're saying he can get them from you? Laughing

Sure - I would give away a couple of steel plates but postage would be more than two new ones from Honda US.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 12:39 am

Clutch steels. I have two used ones left. These are out of a 1100. I recently bought a donor clutch, used two when I put in the new mechyank clutch pusher and sent two to another member. Postage was about $3:00. If you or anyone else wants them just let me know.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 6:10 am

Junk yard is easiest source from a 750,there should be gobs of them. All are the same size so makes no difference 750/900/1100 or 900C/1000C.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 10:03 am

sonicrete wrote:

Junk yard is easiest source from a 750,there should be gobs of them. All are the same size so makes no difference 750/900/1100 or 900C/1000C.

Just courious, for a quick fix can you swap out the whole basket from one to the other while you rebuild the original.

Posted: Mon May 03, 2010 5:48 pm

The inner hub with the plates must come out first to turn the washer with the splines so the basket will release.

The main problem is to get the clutch plate "ears" to re-enter the basket at the same time rotate the clutch input shaft so this lines up as well.

It is not like you can pull the whole works at one time.

There are actually three different baskets. The 750 has a narrower gear and seems weaker. The 900 marked "438" has a wider gear and "appears" to have better rivets/stronger. The 1100 has a wider gear yet. Now I have broken down 750's and found "438" baskets,so it may only be the early 750 that had the weak one.

The assembly trick is to stack the plates onto the inner hub,install the "pressure plate",then use one spring/bolt and a washer to hold the stack intact but loose enough to rotate plates to further true up the ears to assemble it into the basket.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 4:58 am

I decided to throw the dealership a few bones and place my order through them. They offer a small discount for online orders and the free shipping to store makes up some of the difference. And they're the last dealership left, so maybe that should count for something too. Best deal I could find on the EBC clutch kit was $65 shipped.

Is it necessary to have the steels bead or sand blasted? Will roughing them up by hand do the same thing?

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:32 am

BikeBandit.com
13.00 shipped.works great.gl..

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 12:51 pm

I tried to put brand new steels in with my new EBC's.....

with the clutch handle (properly adjusted mind you) pulled all the way in and bike in first gear I would do about 10 mph Shocked

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 9:03 pm

Can you guys even do basic maintainence? You think maybe a clutch must release dead clean and hold 8000 rpm to drag race?

Now back to the show. No you can put together junk if you wish. Glass bead the steels is an important part of getting this shit clutch to work.

As I have said NUMEROUS times it does three main things. It gives a longer friction point because the tops of the roughness begins to engage before the rest of the plate. The roughness "bites" into the fiber so holds better. Most of all the blast finish "sheds" oil so the clutch releases clean. A smooth finish will drag the oil into the separated plates and becomes a "torque converter" will take off with the clutch still released plus they stick together like wet glass on a table top.

Now most of us found this by accident but I will tell my friend's story since he fixes a lot of fucked up Harley Davidsons. How many shit Harley mechanics out there but this was written in a book,to "rub" the steels on a concrete garage floor to "rough them up". So Eugene finds steels in such bad shape he did not want to reuse them and blasted them to make them look a little better.

End result was the best working clutch he had done so has kept doing it.

Now back to the guy too stupid to get it to free up after being written about numerous times. Plug the oil hole on the side of the throwout bearing holder,this keeps the oil out of the clutch basket.

Now most important is to ADJUST the freeeplay at the main adjustment since it will now be further away. Cable off,go in to touch and back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn,lock the lock nut,NOW adjust the cable freeplay.

Posted: Tue May 04, 2010 10:44 pm

sonicrete wrote:

Now back to the guy too stupid to get it to free up after being written about numerous times.

If this was directed at me...i accept...I tried to short cut it.

Then i ripped the clutch apart again and had it done right (bead blast the steels and I also did the pressure plate and the other half of the basket surfaces where the fiber engage.)

And it now works like Sonic says, perfect! After a 250 mile break in, my clutch'ing and friction point are right were I left them before the switch but with a whole hell'a lot of bite!

Posted: Wed May 05, 2010 4:24 am

I really hate to make fun of someone,but after I post this so many times I get frustrated repeating myself.

That blasting deal is the biggest trick you can imagine. Originally did it to get better engage,but found got better release at the same time.

Billy just got another bike,a ZX-9,traded that '98 Turbo Mitsubishi Eclipse for it. Bike had a Kevlar Barnett that chattered,so we took it apart to look at it. Steels were "blued",fibers brand new,so apparantly flat rate was there. Cleaned it up,blasted the steels,and now clutch works great.

Anyway the 750/900 cover bikes needs to have that center adjustment correct. You can get freeplay at the bars with too much at the center but this means the angle of the arm is not correct. You can also have that 1/4 to 1/2 turn go to nil and the clutch will slip even with play at the bars. You need the cable to be off the arm to do it correctly.