Chain clean and lube

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:04 am

My chain looks a bit dirty and dry. What do you guys use to clean and lube your chain drives?

I have heard to use WD-40 to clean and use Chain saw and sprocket oil or 80-90 weight gear oil. What have you found to be the best? Can you damage a chain if the lube has detergents?

JohnnyBravo

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:17 am

WD40, stiff brush, and shop paper towels. I like chain wax to lube.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:24 am

I use WD40 and a rag. Just wet the rag and wipe. It softens up the old chain lube easily. I just use a high quality chain lube approved for O-ring chains.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:40 am

Who makes a good lube. Can you give me a name brand???? Where do go to get it?

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:48 am

Nice looking bike, Little bit of advice, not to be a smart ass but Armor All and motorcycle tires don't mix. Looks nice though.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:52 am

I like Maxima chain wax, many shops around here sell it.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:54 am

Yes, I know about the Armorall..............actually, this was the picture posted on E-Bay which enticed me to buy it. I'm not putting any Armorall on it now..............very slippery I know!

BUT IT IS MINE NOW!

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:01 am

I've been using kerosene to clean, and PJ1 Blue Label to lube for years with good results. Sweet lookin' F 'ya got there Wink

.

David

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:22 am

Plus one on the kero and Maxima Chain wax. I use an old baking pan the wife was going to throw away and an old toothbrush, then have at it!

Have heard rumors that WD isn't good for the O rings in the chain, but that's just what I've heard.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:30 am

I purchased a gold RK x-ring and was wondering if i could clean the white grease off of it, or leave it? it is really sticky and a pain to handle.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:01 am

I'd leave it. It is there for a reason, no? Sweet bike. Got to go to a bike shop for chain lube - NAPA won't have it. As long as it says safe for o-rings, you should be ok.

Twinstar Joined: Jul 16, 2007 Posts: 226 Location: NorCal

I discovered Maxima Chain Wax way back in 81' or 82' and have never used ANY other chain lube product since! Before that it was PJ-1 and Kal-Gard aerosols which were both completely crap compared to what Maxima had developed. Great stuff.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:39 am

Fastball wrote:

Plus one on the kero and Have heard rumors that WD isn't good for the O rings in the chain, but that's just what I've heard.

I recently heard that one also, this needs to be investigated. Popcorn

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:11 pm

The WD-40 solution is mentioned across many of the motorcycle forums as a good cleaning solution for chains. I think that Martin (Stoutblock) uses the bulk container of WD-40 not the aerosol spray bomb (he has related this in other threads). The aerosol spray can contains Stoddard solvent as part of the carrier medium for the solution. I've found in a non-related service that the aerosol version/spray bomb WD-40 does not provide for any lasting lube or protection of the parts I've used it on. Within two weeks of the sprayed application (as a long term storage protectant..or so I thought) the parts had corrosion on them,..this after being sealed in a air-tight Glad containers. I've never used aerosol WD in the lube/protectant application again based on that one time experience.

For chain cleaning and lube I very much follow the factory suggestions,..Kerosene or hydrocarbon solution of similar make up (currently I use Kleen-Flo parts bath wash solution) as the cleaning medium followed by a gear oil. In days gone by the gear oil was 80W-90 gear lube. Quaker State provide nice sized bottles with a pointed spout that made application extremely easy.

The use of the spray on wax based and moly base materials never convinced me that I was getting the material as deep into the chain parts as I might like. Secondary to that was the clean up of the rear wheel after these "No-Sling" protectants got slung off onto the wheel and surrounding area. They came off the chain but true to the advertising removal from the rear wheel and tire proved to be a bit more troublesome. This in not the case with a light application of gear oil. Yes it will sling off,..but it penetrates (IMHO) better then the spray on wax mediums, is easier to clean off surrounding surfaces, is easier to clean off the chain, and also tends not to hold the road grime and grit that might otherwise build up on the sticky chain lube mediums.

With my return to riding in 2005 I kept with the lube oil based chain service, but took it to the next level if you will, with a Scott Auto Chain Oiling system. These units oil the chain as you ride at a metered rate that is adjustable by you at any point in time as you like. They use engine vacuum to open the flow of oil to the chain during engine run time and close the valve when the engine stops. You can effectively clean the chain as you ride by simply turning up the oil flow rate and allow the increased flow to coat the chain and then to be flung off carrying the dirt and grit and grime with it,...Yeah this can make a mess of the rear of the bike I think...I've never had the need to do this myself. The flow rate can also be increased for wet weather riding. Rider Station distribute these systems in the U.S., here's a link with more info: http://riderstation.com/oiler.php

My bikes are using the Duel Oiler upgrade unit also. Both sets of chian side plates get lubed with the upgrade.

The Scott Oiler is made in Scotland...hence the name I guess.

On the Super Blackbird site I visit there is mention of another on-board chain oiling system...the Pro Oiler. This one is somewhat more involved as it requires an electrical source to run a small pump, needs a location to mount a control button, and is less "automatic" then the Scott Oiler. The operator simply pushes the control button and gives a forced shot of oil to the chain as he rides when he likes. I still like the Scott system as that is what I've been using to date. Both units relate that chain life can be extended by a large degree with the constant metered chain lube technology installed. All three of my current road worthy machines have one of the Scott Oiler's installed. Here's a link: http://www.pro-oiler.com/

There is another auto oiler unit that I've just noticed while looking for links to the units I've mentioned. I know nothing about this one,.. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/cameleon-motorcycle-chain-oiler/

One other point that maybe worth mention if not done so already. The "O" ring and "X" ring chains are effectively sealed units due to there "O" ring designs. You can not get any lube (normally) past the "O" ring to lube the area between the side plates and the "O" ring locations. The lube you are applying is protection for the area's outside of the "O" ring locations and the area's of the roller pins that the chain sprocket teeth make contact at. If your are getting lube past the "O" rings then the chain is on it's way out as these area's should always be sealed from the outside world. This is one reason that high pressure wash units should never be brought to bear in the area of the chain and sprocket assembles. High pressure water may get force past the "O" rings and carry whatever contamination that's present into the "O"ring area with it, to say nothing of the corrosion that may start due to the water entrapment (they may not be good for other area's of the bike either but....) When I have and do use the auto wash sprayer's while on the road it is only in a fogging' type spray application to put some suds on the bike....direct high pressure use is not part of the package and I steer well away from the chain area's with the stream.

Getting back to chain cleaning..there are a couple systems that are reported to make it easier? cleaner?..better? at getting the job done,...this if your one that is not want to get at the chain with your brush and Kero cleaning solution in a manual sense. Here's a couple links to two such units of similar design. I've never used either of these or anything like them. The Scott Oiler tends to make chain cleaning less of an issue in a general sense...build up of crap is kept to a minimum for the most part...or maybe that more related to when and where I ride?

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/motorcycle-chain-cleaner/moose-chain-cleaner.htm

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/kettenmax-chain-cleaner/

If you visit the above links be sure to check the area to the right hand side of the web page...there appears to be some linked info on different chain lube mediums that may be worth a read. I have not read any of them myself as I'll be staying with the Scott Oiler as my chain lube package.

FWIW,

Tony "did someone say Mazola Party?" Bagley

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:36 pm

Tony are you using stock carbs?

CB1100F Joined: Mar 03, 2004 Posts: 3278 Location: Seattle

Quote:

I purchased a gold RK x-ring and was wondering if i could clean the white grease off of it, or leave it? it is really sticky and a pain to handle.

Put a few miles on her, like 100 or more, so that the chain grease can heat up & soak into the links. Then use ANY all purpose solvent to clean her up....

The X-Rings will protect any lube that has penetrated into the links.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:27 pm

I spray the chain with wd40 or any other aerosolized penetrating spray short of the really strong stuff like PB Blaster. I let it sit a few minutes and scrub the grime loose with a nylon brush before wiping clean with shop towels. For lubrication I'm still using a bottle of gear oil, I just run the bike on the center stand and dribble it on the chain. The excess flings off and the rest drains onto the floor. The chain wax worked fine but I found the chain had to be cleaned before every application. Also, it costs more and I'm still trying to get my $3 worth from this liter of gear oil.

Cleaning the rear tire is optional. I never enjoyed chasing my tail.

CB1100F Joined: Mar 03, 2004 Posts: 3278 Location: Seattle

The be all and end all of chain cleaning an lube. And YES, WD40 is NOT to be used as a lubricant... EVER!! Shocked

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two. The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust.

The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip. The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well.

We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized. However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that!

Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders. What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid. Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust.

Then these guys have to cloud the issue all over again. My thoughts??

DONT USE IT as a lube, regardlesss of what Desmo says.....

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8987&highlight=WD-40+letter

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:31 pm

I use some sort of chain wax in a black and gold can - never have chain probs and and never have the back of the bike covered in sh1t. Will look up the brand tomorrow.

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 5:29 pm

kwd wrote:

Tony are you using stock carbs?

My 750/836 is running 31mm Keihin CR-S with velocity stacks. The 1100F is (at the moment) running the stock Keihin CV carbs and airbox set up. 33mm CR-S or 35mm FCR's sit in wait for it should I desire. The Super Blackbird is running the stock downdraft 43mm Keihin CV carbs. The vacuum source for the Scott Oiler is the factory vacuum carb balancing ports in the cylinder head/s down stream of the carb/head intake rubber boots. Simply remove the screw at one of the cylinder head locations (there are 4..one per cylinder) and replace with the supplied fitting of like thread pitch with a bit of sealing compound applied. Was this where you were going with your question?

Tony

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:52 pm

don't want to hi-jack but is it ok to use a degreaser like engine-brite to clean the chain?

Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:58 pm

I have found the pump spray WD40 is a good cleaner. Kerosene is just as good. Stay away from aerosol.

Hawk Joined: Jul 24, 2007 Posts: 287 Location: North Wales

I've always used parafin/kerosene and a toothbrush for cleaning. I use a Loobman chain oiler on my XBR. It's like a Scottoiler but simpler and a lot cheaper. There's a guy over here who sells step by step instructions for making you own and gives all the profits to charity. I'm planning on making one for my 900F when I get round to it. I'll post a link if I can find it.

The problem with auto oilers is it's easy to overdo it and flick oil all over your back wheel.

Dave

CB1100F Joined: Mar 03, 2004 Posts: 3278 Location: Seattle

Quote:

don't want to hi-jack but is it ok to use a degreaser like engine-brite to clean the chain?

I used it last week on Da Beast to clean up some of the grease on my new RED chain....

Wiped her down, road for 100 miles or so to dry her out good, then lubed her up with Bel Ray..

Super Clean Chain Lube is a high performance motorcycle and O-ring chain lubricant for street and off-road applications. This unique formula sprays on a “white” lubricant that will not fling off or attract dirt or sand once dry.

Twinstar Joined: Jul 16, 2007 Posts: 226 Location: NorCal

Wow! You guys are making m/c chain maintenance miserable for yourselves by using oil as a lubricant on an o-ring chain, what a mess!

The chain must be clean, dry and free of oil and grunge deposits for a "quality" wax-based lube to adhere to the chain and work properly.
I spray straight "Simple Green" on all of my bikes chains before washing them, after the bike and chain are completely dry, ride the bike for a few minutes to warm-up the chain and then put the bike on a swing arm stand. With the engine running, I slip it into 2nd gear and spray on a light coat of Maxima to the "inside" area of the rotating chain for about 5-10 seconds and quickly shut the engine down. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes for the wax to "set-up" and you're good to go with NO fling-off whatsoever.

I like to do a quick re-lube before most rides and always use the Simple Green drill at every wash.

(When replacing chains, I prefer D.I.D., it's the best chain out there.)

CB1100F Joined: Mar 03, 2004 Posts: 3278 Location: Seattle

Quote:

(When replacing chains, I prefer D.I.D., it's the best chain out there.)

D.I.D's dont offer chains in color....

EK does....similar specs as D.I.D., 530 chain rated to 145hp, X-ring, 9300 lbs tensile strength, starting @ $119.... Shocked

http://www.ekchain.com/sport.htm

Factory disclaimer:
Anyone can claim their chain is stronger, but EK Chain took a 530ZVX Quadra-X Ring chain into the lab to prove it. In a controlled test, using a 1300cc sportbike and simulating real-world riding, the EK 530ZVX showed a maximum stretch of only 0.09% after nearly 13,500 miles, when the test had to be stopped because the other chain sustained a roller failure. We couldn't say it if it weren't true; test results are available on request.

Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 4:42 am

I always hear old drag racer types talking about spraying WD-40 on their tire bead to "melt" it onto the rim. I wouldn't want some WD-40 to potentially deteriorate orings in a chain. I stick with Kerosene and I'll try that wax next time.

Jose

Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:40 am

Bel-Ray, one chain adjustment in 5,000 miles...and I try not to ride easy all the time. Very Happy