Pickup truck setup for bike transport.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:23 pm

As a recent first time pickup truck owner, I am wondering what the hot setup is for transporting our very heavy F-bikes

How long a ramp is best? longer = easier to push up. What is everyone using?

Do you guys use a wheel chock to hold the front wheel? I saw a demo of the "condor" and it looked real secure and easy to use. At $240 it doesn't qualify as an impulse shopping item.

Guest

f4fast wrote:

As a recent first time pickup truck owner, I am wondering what the hot setup is for transporting our very heavy F-bikes

How long a ramp is best? longer = easier to push up. What is everyone using?

Do you guys use a wheel chock to hold the front wheel? I saw a demo of the "condor" and it looked real secure and easy to use. At $240 it doesn't qualify as an impulse shopping item.

I transported my 750F from NJ to GA and did not have a wheel chock (Ford SportTrac no less!). I used ratcheting nylon straps (two up front and two on the rear..) & used soft straps to avoid having the hooks touch the bike. Soft straps are about $9 a set of two...I have 3 sets. Ramp length also depends on the size of your truck and the height of your tailgate. I usually have someone help loading in the back of the truck (read...old(er) fart). Best of all now..I have a trailer, that makes it really easy! Very Happy

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:01 pm

Be careful with whatever ramp you decide on. These babies are heavy when you lose momentum on the ramp and they start to lean. Don't try it by yourself until you're convinced you don't need a helper.

I'm fortunate whenever a pickup or etc. is involved. I have a hill/berm on the property to back the truck into. It's a straight roll on from there.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:19 pm

winnerc2s wrote:

I'm fortunate whenever a pickup or etc. is involved. I have a hill/berm on the property to back the truck into. It's a straight roll on from there.

This is by far the best method for loading a pickup. If a ramp is your preferred method I would hope that you are talking about a relatively low truck. Stock 2wd at the tallest. I drive an F250 4wd with 20" wheels. No way would I attempt to load my CBX or FZR using a ramp. Without a small hill to back up to, the only appropriate choice is a trailer. And definately bring friends to help. As mentioned earlier, use chokers to hook the tie-downs hooks to. Don't hook them directly to the bike.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:41 pm

I prefer a trailer, it's easier to load the bike. I tilt the trailer, push the bike on, and secure with ratcheting nylon straps. Then I pick the front of the trailer up (very easy) and put on hitch ball. Lock, hook chains up and plug in trailer lights.

The bed of the pickup can be used to transport all of the extra parts that may come with the bike.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:58 pm

I have a hill to use,but what happens when u get to location and its flat? What about buying a project a couple of states away? Oh yeah , the truck is high; 4WD, 3/4 ton.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 5:35 pm

There is an alternative to pickup trucks now, guys.

check this thing out.

http://bikelug.net/

These guys make a super lightweight, collapsable trailer that's supposed to fit in a big car trunk. it can be assembled quickly and you can be on your way.

Im thinkin about getting one if my Fiance ever sells her truck...

Rolling Eyes

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 7:57 pm

This setup
http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=40376

is what brought this post to mind. Filthyboatguy?? What are you doing to get that heavy "F" into the truck?

Hawk Joined: Oct 12, 2007 Posts: 320 Location: Connecticut

be very very careful. i was set back about 20 or 30 bucks when me and my buddy tried loading it into the back of a power ram 250, it feel over about halfway up....really really sucked.

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:25 pm

And be careful tightening your forward tie-downs. With the front wheel against the front of the pickup bed, tightening them without discretion can damage the front of the bed. Use a second set at the rear of the bike and add tension in unison.

David Frost

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 11:20 pm

For years I used a 12x8 ft plank and four tie downs with no problem,the seller allways give me a hand to load the bike.At home I get help sometimes, most others I unloaded by myself.Last fall I purchase a 7ft aluminium arched ramp. Well, last fall I found a nice CB1100 in Selden LI after I came home with the bike I rushed to unloaded from the truck and dropped in the driveway.Not to much damage except a bent mirror and some scratches.I have a Chevy Silverado 2wd and its pretty high of the ground.

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:52 pm

I can't help you with any ramp ideas but once you have it on the truck (or trailer) the secret in keeping it upright is to make sure that there is sufficient tension on the shocks that when you hit a bump on the road the bike does not lower on it's own shocks and thereby for one instant induce slack into the hold down straps. This momentary slacking of the straps as your bike shocks compress is enough to skew it's center of gravity and let your bike fall over.

If you chose to utilize the center stand the danger is that the bike will move forward during hard braking and come off the stand. If you use the center stand you must ensure that the rear tire is straped to the back of the truck/trailer to prevent forward motion. Using a block on the front tire might work as well but once again remember that the shocks compress while you are driving and allows the bike to move. If you use the center stand method you must ensure that the hold down straps prevent a rear movement as well which could slacken the rear wheel tie down.

Hope this makes some kind of sense Confused

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 3:25 pm

Here is a link somewhat related in a tie-down sense. Most of the info pertains to trailering the bike but much of the technique is applicable. One comment that I'll make again is the use of tie-down straps at the rear of the bike..in particular around the rear grab rails. I would suggest that you do not do this unless you wish to purchase new grab rails. Granted, the amount of load on the grab rails during a short smooth transit will be low but if the trasist is longer and the road rough the abuse the grab rails take is enough to tear the grab handle metal at the shock mount ends. Ask me how I know this. If you feel the need to secure the rear of the bike do so via soft-hooks (those wrap around straps) at the swingarm or rear wheel area's that are not subjected to suspension movement,..use an "unsprung location". And these locations should only be needed to help keept the rear of the bike centered on the truck or trailer. The front two bar tie downs are the real work horses. I now have a set of adjustable slipon bar end tie down sleeves (Canyon Carvers?) that make the front end connection both painless , easy, secure.

http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=19359

Hope this helps.

Tony "trailering bikes is a drag" Bagley

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:19 pm

It's probably just my familarity with my truck but I prefer the bed of the truck (Full size Tundra) over a trailer (at least for a single bike). I only have a single folding ramp but would like to get another to walk the bike up and I always find an incline to back up to and get the least amount of angle on the ramp. There is a school a block away from home that has a handicap ramp so perfect I could get away with no ramp at all. If I travel to out of state group rides with the bike in the bed I've never had a problem finding some hill, incline, or retaining wall to back up to at my destination. This year I have also bought and picked up 3 bikes this way (with the sellers help like Mike said).
As far as straps go I only need three. I've got 1 large ratcheting strap that goes from the corners (on floor of the bed) around the frame neck, and two that connect to each rear grab bar (to the rear corners). Maybe I've just been lucky but put a lot of miles in without a problem.
I've also seen a couple guys start the bike and actually feather the clutch and use 1 ramp to walk up and the other to "drive" it up, not for me though. Rolling Eyes

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:29 pm

Quote:

These babies are heavy when you lose momentum on the ramp and they start to lean.

+1 on that

Do not attempt a "slow ride" up a ramp unless you have a firm footing on both sides of the bike.

How Not To Load A Motorcycle

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:56 pm

f4fast wrote:

This setup
http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=40376

is what brought this post to mind. Filthyboatguy?? What are you doing to get that heavy "F" into the truck?

7 foot ramp that is sort of concave to avoid the pipes from dragging. Truck is a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab.

Oh and a running start and my "big guns" help Smile

Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 12:47 am

filthyboatguy wrote:

7 foot ramp that is sort of concave to avoid the pipes from dragging. Truck is a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab.

I have the same basic setup and just bought ramps like those in your picture @ Priceclub for $100. I know these bikes are real heavy and figured asking for some tips would be smart before going for it.Can you fit the bike in w/the tailgate up? I have a crew cab too w/ a 6'6" bed.

Fitter , .I can picture exactly what you mean with the front wheel sliding. I think that "Condor" wheel shoe seems like a good idea. The Cycle World show in Manhattan had a salesman doing an elaborate demonstration of the product.He rolled the bike into it ,then showed how stable it was and how the bike was secure w/ only two straps ,etc. He pushed,pulled and tugged and the bike was rock solid w/no straps at all.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to chime in.

Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 2:04 am

Pingle and others make a quick removal front tire holding chock.

I mounted the holding clips onto a piece of 3/4" marine plywood. You lay the plywood into the bed and with the bike sitting on it holds it down. Or you can mount the removal things into the bed which mean drilling some holes.

Now all you need is two strap holding locations,or for more secure two more in the rear corners. These should mount low and make a triangle holding behind the front tire/front fork. The tightening pressure holds the bike both down and forward. If the strap holding postion is in front of the forks the pressure allows the rear of the bike to lift on braking.

You do not use the side or main stand tieing a bike into a truck. Pull on the straps and the bike will move side to side as you compress the forks and quit when it is straight up and down.

As for ramp to do it,buy some 2X8 or so pressure treated lumber pieces and put them end to end on something to support the center,tool box,cement block,etc. You could put a hinge to hold them together. The longer the ramp the easier it is and a convienient bank to make it flat is easier yet.